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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

This bottle of 1982 Château Margaux was wonderful yet atypical. This has a heightened sense of brine on the nose that initially drew me towards an older vintage such as 1961. Yet the colour was clearly not as old as that, and it has more youthfulness than you would anticipate. Very complex, yet more reserved…

Cellar Favorite: 1982 Château Margaux (May 2015)

The 1982 Château Margaux is a real stunner. An exotic, almost candied bouquet melds into sweet red-hued fruit in a voluptuous, racy Margaux endowed with magnificent purity. Large and ample on the palate, with silky tannins and translucent fruit, the 1982 is rich yet also miraculously seamless. All the elements are in the right place….

Bordeaux In Excelsis (Jun 2018)

The 1982 Château Margaux was the best bottle that I have tasted and I have been blessed with this wine over twenty times over the years. This boasts wondrous blackberry, raspberry and crushed stone scents that like recent bottles, suggesting a touch of Pauillac at its heart. The palate is defined by its filigree tannins,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Boysenberry, cassis, toasty oak and bitter chocolate on the slightly dusty nose. Penetrating and powerful; quite dry but almost exotically ripe, with sappy berry flavors complicated by graphite and licorice notes. Finishes very tannic and very long, with a strongly spicy character. 94(+?). Second bottle: Medium ruby. Vibrant aromas of boysenberry, violet and…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Superb dark ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of black raspberry, cassis and smoke. Lush, layered and sweet; already shows compelling inner-mouth flavor, surprising in light of the 3.6 pH, which is lower than normal for this wine. Still, the acids are harmonious and ripe. Longer and sweeter on the back end than the ’97. Tannins are…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good medium ruby. Aromatic nose combines crystallized blackberry, cassis, shoe polish and mint. Tight, firm and rather ungiving in the mouth, with moderately ripe, muscular flavors of cassis, licorice and shoe polish. Doesn’t quite deliver the flavor interest promised by the nose.