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Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(made from 55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay; 20% of the wine was aged in oak; no malo, as usual): Light, bright gold. Heady mineral- and smoke-accented citrus and orchard fruit aromas, with notes of fig, toasted nuts and sweet butter adding complexity and depth. Powerful, palate-staining poached pear and orange flavors are given spine…

Mosel 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (Jun 2017)

Zesty fresh lemon and a quarry-dust-like suggestion of crushed stone on the nose set the relatively austere, pungent tone for this bottling, as confirmed by incisive mustard seed as well as glowing piquancy of peach kernel on a polished but firm palate. Fresh lemon juiciness conveys welcome refreshment to the penetratingly persistent finish. It will…

Mosel 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (Jun 2017)

Zesty fresh lemon and a quarry-dust-like suggestion of crushed stone on the nose set the relatively austere, pungent tone for this bottling, as confirmed by incisive mustard seed as well as glowing piquancy of peach kernel on a polished but firm palate. Fresh lemon juiciness conveys welcome refreshment to the penetratingly persistent finish. It will…

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2017 Barolo Cascina Nuova is an attractive wine to drink now and over the next decade or so. Bright red-toned fruit, crushed rose petal and mint open in the glass. The tannins are a bit grainy, but I would not push my luck too far on aging.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Saint Romain Village is a blend of Le Village and Jarrons. This is quite neutral on the nose with light undergrowth scents coming through with time, fern and white flowers. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fine salinity although Haisma’s Pernand has a little more substance.

South Australia, Victoria and a Bit Beyond (Sep 2022)

Opaque ruby. Expansive aromas of dark fruit preserves, pipe tobacco and woodsmoke are complemented by a hint of vanilla that builds as the wine stretches out. Broad and energetic on the palate, offering concentrated black and blue fruit, spicecake and cola flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity. The smoke and vanilla notes recur…