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New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Light gold. Intensely aromatic nose offers a complex bouquet of smoky orchard and pit fruit aromas, along with exotic orange zest and white pepper. Deep and chewy, displaying impressively concentrated but brisk pear and bitter citrus pith flavors and an undercurrent of buttery brioche and lees. Finishes with palate-staining persistence and a subtle anise quality….

Outsider Looking In: Sociando-Mallet 1982-2015 (March 2019)

The 2003 Sociando-Mallet is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc picked between September 10 and 24. It was aged in new oak barrels for 11 months. Coming from the north Médoc, it would have enjoyed onshore breezes that mitigated the summer heat. The bouquet shows no signs of that…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

: Good medium ruby-red color. More grilled on the nose than the 2004 or 2005: superripe black fruits and bitter chocolate. Then liqueur-like verging on confectionery in the mouth, but with surprisingly healthy acids giving shape to the dominant black fruit flavors. At once velvety and quite powerful, with the fine-grained tannins currently conveying a…

The Red Wines of Northeast Italy (Mar 2012)

Good deep ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of redcurrant and crushed rock, with a red berry liqueur-like nuance. Supple, lush and sweet, but with surprising acidity and a recurring mineral quality energizing the middle palate. Finishes with smooth tannins and very good length. This has the stuffing to age but also offers considerable upfront appeal.

Northern Italy: Alto Adige, Friuli, Veneto (Feb 2011)

The 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is all elegance and class. It possesses gorgeous depth and roundness in an accessible style best suited for near and mid-term drinking. I don’t quite find the structure of the 2006, instead the 2007 impresses for its silky tannins and overall sense of harmony. As always, Allegrini’s Amarone is…

Vinous Table: Brat, London, UK (Aug 2018)

The 1989 Chasse-Spleen offers chestnut and black truffle on the nose, with a touch of dried blood, comfortably revealing in its secondary aromas. The palate is wonderfully balanced, the dusty black fruit laced with cedar and charcoal, a hint of soy on the “old school” finish. The 1989 has held up wonderfully and, though maybe…