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Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 2003 Pichon-Lalande is a decent if not exceptional wine. I found it horrendously inconsistent just after bottling, swinging from excessively ripe to green within the space of two bottles; it has since settled down. The nose of black currant and crème de cassis is a little smudged but offers satisfying purity and not too…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good deep red. Flamboyantly expressive aromas of raspberry, currant, earth, smoked meat, chocolate and pepper. Fat, full and voluptuous yet somehow light on its feet. This has a texture of liquid velvet. Wonderfully opulent wine with considerable inner-palate flavor complexity: raspberry, game, leather, mocha and chocolate. Finishes with very fine-grained tannins that coat the entire…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good ruby-red. Smoky raspberry, ripe plum, coffee and a hint of menthol on the nose. Very sweet, fruit-driven wine, with thoroughly ripe flavors of raspberry and chocolate supported by solid backbone. Finishes with big, dusty tannins and excellent length.

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2005 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is in a gorgeous spot right now. Medium in body and lithe, with striking radiance from the warm weather that year, the 2005 is classy, polished and exceptionally beautiful. A hint of reduction adds lovely complexity on the finish.

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

Served from magnum, the 2005 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a gorgeous freshly baked popcorn, almond and patisserie-scented bouquet that is damn irresistible, if maybe just lacking a bit of mineral drive. The palate is underpinned by a very fine bead of acidity, beautifully balanced and perhaps weightier than recent vintages. There is a lick of…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1995 Château Margaux is a vintage perhaps unfairly over-shadowed by the imperious 1996. That is unfair because the late Paul Pontallier crafted a great First Growth this year. It has a very impressive, quintessential Margaux bouquet that is undimmed after 23 years: black fruit, graphite, crushed violets and a touch of tobacco. If anything…