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Cellar Favorites: 1945, 1966 & 1982 Gruaud Larose (Dec 2018)

The 1982 Gruaud Larose has long been one of my favourite Saint Julien wines from that vintage. From magnum, the exquisite bouquet of black fruit, leather and hints of game and antique bureau is fully mature yet vigorous and so joyful. The palate is medium-bodied, with fine tannins that have melted in recent years. Here,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good deep red. Very complex, perfumed aromas of plum, leather, meat and minerals. Sweet, lush and young; really stuffed with fat, meaty fruit. Broad without being really thick, with impressive precision of fruit. The most complex of these three vintages of Gruaud-Larose. Finishes with big, ripe tannins and palate-staining sweet fruit. The young 2000 reminds…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Roc de Cambes is even better from bottle than it was from barrel. Rich, dense and explosive, with tremendous power the 2017 is positively stellar from the very first taste. Macerated dark cherries, sage, spice, star anise, orange zest, mint and new leather give the 2017 an exotic, racy feel that is hard…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Grand Puy Ducasse is a wine that I last tasted with no less than Michael Broadbent during a bibulous dinner in Tokyo back in 2004. The bouquet has faded since back then but is still nicely defined with cedar and tobacco stained red fruit, a subtle ferrous tincture and cooked meat. The palate…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Roc de Cambes has a vivid bouquet with ebullient redcurrant and cranberry fruit that "jump" out of the glass, yet the aromatics remain tender and graceful, to use two words uttered by François Mitjavile in describing the vintage. The palate is very well balanced with filigree tannins, dark berry fruit laced with clove…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Tertre-Rôteboeuf has Saint-Émilion blood pumping through its veins, although this 2017 has tones of Left Bank, subtle cigar box and smoke aromas infusing the tightly knit red fruit, a faint marine influence in the background. The palate is silky smooth on the entry with a fine line of acidity, quite savory in character…