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Rheinhessen and Nahe 2015: Cool Concentration from a “Warm Vintage” (Nov 2017)

Cooling oregano and zesty fresh lime and lemon inform a penetratingly pungent nose and a firm, concentrated palate in this amalgamation of fruit from Keller’s Grosses Gewächs sites. Juiciness and crunch of cucumber and ripe apple highlight the virtues he rightly associates with his 2015 fruit as well as the virtues of high-active-lime soil. The…

Mosel 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (Jun 2017)

Ripe honeydew melon mingles with contrasting crunchy apple and bracing fresh lime. These are joined by quince on a glossy, subtly creamy, pure-fruited palate. Hints of almond cream paste and vanilla cream create a lightly confectionary impression that somehow harmonizes with the wine’s vivacious fresh-fruit aspects. There is a lovely sense of lift throughout this…

Mosel 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (Jun 2017)

Mirabelle and Persian melon mingle with lime and grapefruit on an attention-getting nose and a luscious, ultra-buoyant, glycerol-rich, subtly creamy palate. While harboring only 7.5 percent alcohol (a bit more, granted, than the corresponding 2014) and hence residual sugar in the mid-80s, this manages to balance perfectly, with the impression of sweetness entirely supportive of…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Deep ruby. Sexy, oak-tinged dark berry and floral scents pick up cracked pepper and licorice flourishes with aeration. Juicy and precise on the palate, offering sweet blackberry and cherry flavors that unfold and spread out steadily on the back half. Shows impressive clarity and spicy persistence on the finish, which is framed by smooth, even…

Australia Rediscovers Its Mojo (Mar 2016)

(aged for a year in 26% new French oak hogsheads): Inky ruby. Sexy, expressive aromas of oak-spiced cassis, blackberry, mocha and vanilla, with a smoky mineral overtone. Densely packed but juicy and energetic, conveying a light touch to its bitter cherry, dark berry and violet pastille flavors. Finishes penetrating and appealingly sweet, with silky tannins…

2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Inky ruby. Intense, mineral- and floral-accented scents of red and dark berries, cherry pit and cola. Spicy, penetrating and precise, offering deep black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that put on weight in the glass. Shows superb energy and lift on the very persistent finish, which features fine-grained tannins and a lingering violet note.