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2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(these 70-year-old vines produced a good-size crop, noted Lachaux) Dark red. Brooding aromas of dark berries, bitter chocolate and game. Broader and more muscular than the Hautes Maizieres but with a bit less lift, clarity and floral character. A fat, chewy style, very Nuits-Saint-Georges in its density of texture.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good medium red. Aromas of kirsch and briary brown spices, with a medicinal aspect. Bigger, richer and deeper than the Mazy but more brooding and medicinal today. For its size and concentration, this shows very suave tannins for the year. But has the acid spine for a slow evolution in the bottle. I’d forget about…

Domaine Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin (Jun 2016)

The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin captures the richness of the year in its pliant, open personality. Wonderfully dense and expressive, especially for a village-level wine, the 2005 is drinking beautifully today. Worn-in leather, spices, tobacco and dried dark cherries meld into the succulent, expressive finish. This is a terrific village-level offering from Rousseau.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(13.4% alcohol) Good saturated red-ruby. Deep, ripe, expressive aromas of black raspberry, coffee, mocha, menthol, black olive and chocolate truffle. Sweet, seamless and lush, offering excellent volume in the mouth and considerable early sex appeal. This boasts the exotic character of Haut-Marbuzet in spades. Sweet, long, large-scaled wine with fine-grained tannins arriving very late.

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good medium red. Aromas of sweet cherry, game and flowers. Fatter and silkier than the Lavaux, with a liqueur-like cherry flavor; very good material here. This is quite open today but also has solid underlying structure.

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Bright ruby-red. Classic aromas of currant, plum, graphite and minerals. Suave and smooth in the mouth, with a compelling sweetness and lushness for the vintage. At once easygoing and wonderfully complex, conveying a powerful soil character. The finish is ripely tannic, sweet and very long. This is wonderfully expressive today but the young 2006 may…