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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet La Grande Montagne 1er Cru is clearly a step up from the Village Cru, offering attractive, mineral-rich citrus fruit scents that pick up orange pith and tangerine aromas in the glass. The palate is well balanced with impressive weight and tension, a subtle spicy note on the back palate and upfront orange…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1982 Cos d’Estournel is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. I have always fallen for the aromatics of this 1982: roasted chestnut and a touch of aniseed that combines effortlessly with the melted red berry fruit, touches of tar developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, perhaps not…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium red. Spicy aromas of redcurrant, strawberry and plum. Ripe, lush and gentle, with a mineral character contributing to the wine impression of structure and leavening the wine’s sweetness. Very long, ripely tannic finish shows slightly elevated alcohol but comes across as firm nonetheless. (A second sample showed aromas of currant, tobacco, coconut and…

The Wines That Shaped My Life (Mar 2022)

The 1983 Pichon Comtesse de Lalande is now fully mature and expressive. Pretty red berry fruit mingles with graphite and cigar box. This bottle shows a little camphor with aeration. The palate is supremely well balanced, less powerful than a few years ago, harmonious and smooth, unpretentious and quintessentially Pauillac with its pencil shaving-tinged, elegant…

The Year of Jazz & Wine: 1959 (Nov 2020)

The 1959 Latour came directly from the château reserves in magnum. Perhaps because of its impeccable provenance, it is deep, almost opaque in color. The bouquet is stunning: black cherries, blackberry, freshly tilled earth, cedar and mint, pure and captivating. The palate is still unerringly youthful with vibrant black fruit, fabulous purity and multi-layered black…

The Year of Jazz & Wine: 1959 (Nov 2020)

The 1959 Latour has always been one of my favorite vintages. Deep in color surprisingly little ageing on the rim, it has an opulent, for this First Growth possibly “decadent” bouquet with layers of black fruit infused with cedar and mint, a touch of grey ash emerging with aeration. The palate is sweet and comely…