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Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

The 1959 Salon is the first of two wines served blind towards the end of this vertical. Although the 1959 retains considerable power for a wine of its age, it is also past peak. Hints of orange peel, butter, spice and brown butter give the 1959 its oxidative, fully mature personality. The 1959 is not…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright, dark red. Deeper-pitched on the nose than the Echézeaux, offering scents of black raspberry, clove, mocha and dark chocolate. Similarly more soil-driven in the mouth than the 2016 version, but with its thick flavors of earth, spices and saline minerality conveying a light touch for 2015. Finishes sappy, vibrant and long, with thoroughly ripe…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Bright red. Complex, high-pitched aroma of red fruits, flowers and mocha, plus a touch of white pepper. Lovely floral lift to the intense, sharply delineated flavors of red raspberry and spices. Youthfully tight today but the very long, vibrant finish displays captivating rising perfume. This should unfold slowly over the next decade.

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The 2011 Bonnes-Mares is dark, powerful and racy. Some of the typical Bonnes-Mares structure is tempered in this vintage, making the wine a little more accessible than it usually is. Menthol, licorice, dried herbs, smoke and dark stone fruits blossom in a dark, virile Burgundy that should provide thrilling drinking for the next 30 years…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(there’s just a single new barrel of this juice, which was vinified entirely with whole clusters): Bright ruby-red. Explosive wild aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, kirsch, leather, game and violet, accented by a suggestion of peppery François Frères oak. A thick, dense elixir in the mouth, without any heaviness or hard edges but still a bit…

2019 Rosé Roundup (Aug 2019)

Vivid salmon skin. Vibrant, mineral-accented red berry and pit fruit aromas, along with suggestions of orange pith and honeysuckle. Silky and energetic in the mouth, offering pliant raspberry, white peach and blood orange flavors and a hint of candied flowers. Powerful yet graceful in character, showing impressive energy and minerally thrust on an impressively long,…