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Horizontal Tasting of Napa Valley’s 2004 Cabernets (Jun 2015)

(14.5% alcohol): Deep red with ruby tones. Deep, sexy nose conveys a liqueur-like ripeness to the aromas of blackcurrant, dark chocolate, tobacco and warm stones. Plush and incredibly fine-grained, showing compelling thickness and density to the slightly high-toned flavors of black raspberry liqueur and minerals. This very ripe, large-scaled wine saturates the entire palate, finishing…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2009)

((500) Full medium ruby. Subdued but pure and vibrant nose offers black raspberry, minerals, licorice and truffle, all lifted by an ineffable perfume that carries through on the palate. Boasts terrific definition and energy; following the group of Bond offerings from ’06, this tasted like a wine from another vintage. Very intensely flavored but wonderfully…

Harlan Estate Vertical at The Naples Winter Wine Festival (Sep 2017)

The 2010 Harlan Estate is a total head-turner. Powerful, dense and exotically ripe – as so many wines are in this vintage – the 2010 dazzles with magnificent intensity. Baritone inflections run through the black cherry, graphite, smoke, tar and licorice flavors. Heat spikes at the end of what was generally a cold growing season…

Vintage Retrospective: The 2010 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2020)

Saturated full ruby to the rim. Brooding scents of black fruits, licorice, minerals, menthol and forest floor. Dense, thick and utterly seamless but alive on entry, then powerful, delineated and penetrating in the middle palate, with licorice, mountain berry and mineral flavors carrying through an explosive, unflagging aftertaste. Utterly palate-staining, endless wine with great power…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2005)

Deep medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, blackberry, candied violet, licorice pastille, black pepper and a suggestion of dusty earth. Like a liquid confection in the mouth: thick and sweet yet almost magically shapely and fresh. The longest, most inexorably palate-staining wine of my tour of the North Coast in early March: this lost…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(only modest crop losses to frost and mildew here): Tight nose offers scents of mirabelle, grapefruit and anise. This, too, conveys an impression of creaminess, but is more concentrated than the Bourgogne Blanc in spite of the closer-to-normal vine yields here. Finishes with a firm edge that calls for a year or two of patience.