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The Noble Wines of Southern Italy (Aug 2010)

The 2003 is a fascinating Serpico. The wine boasts impressive concentration in its dark, rich fruit. This is an incredibly primary Serpico, with little in the way of tertiary development. Ideally, it is best left alone for another few years, but readers fortunate enough to own this are in for a thrilling ride once the…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Deep ruby. Sexy, expansive aromas of red and dark berry preserves, smoky herbs, potpourri and exotic apricot; the smoky character reminds me of the northern Rhone. Mineral-driven raspberry and blackcurrant flavors are alluringly sappy and open-knit, with notes of candied flowers and fruitcake adding complexity. This very sexy wine is extremely complex right now.

Central Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages
 (June 2007)

The estate’s 2004 Camartina is another irresistibly sexy wine. A deeply-colored ruby, it displays captivating aromatics along with notes of blackberries, blueberries, violets and graphite that emerge on its medium-bodied frame. The fine tannins make it a highly enjoyable wine even at this early stage, but my experience suggests that another few years of bottle…

To Paint A Picture: Kumeu River Chardonnay 2006-2017 (Feb 2019)

The 2006 Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay has a slightly subdued bouquet of beeswax and pressed yellow flower aromas. The lightly spiced palate is well balanced with a saline entry and a dab of orange zest toward the finish. Fine, but I would drink this sooner rather than later. Like the Hunting Hill, I find more verve…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good full red. Pure aromas of dark, wild raspberry, candied cherry, smoke, game and mint, all lifted by an ineffable floral perfume. Wonderfully rich, fat and voluminous, combining great sappy cut with an utterly spherical, silky texture (yes, my note says this is possible). The rising finish features great palate-staining length, a chewy impression of…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full red-ruby. Roasted, smoky aromas of blackberry, blueberry and licorice. Plush, dense and large-scaled; expands impressively in the mouth. Chocolatey-ripe but kept fresh by nicely integrated acidity. Offers lovely sweetness without going over the top. Finishes with big, dusty, horizontal tannins and lovely aromatic persistence. Offers extraordinary texture and depth of flavor for a wine…