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Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1990 Pichon-Baron is a sensational wine that must have had the First Growth rattled when it was released. At 28 years old, it is still reveling in its precocious growing season. The multidimensional bouquet features blackberry, graphite, cedar and mint flanked by iodine and warm gravel on a summer day. Wow! The palate is…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. Nose at once subtle and flamboyant, with slightly roasted aromas of currant, cedar, lead pencil and minerals. Large-scaled, sweet and rich, with utterly primary fruit suggesting a long future ahead of it. Tasted next to the ’89, this was a much more massive and somewhat softer wine. Very long on the finish,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Montrose is a magnificent wine and this represents one of the best bottles I have encountered – one that was purchased on release and not moved from Berry Brothers’ cellar since. I have encountered perfect bottles of the 1989, and this flirts with that magic figure. It is blessed with a captivating bouquet…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Bright yellow with green highlights. Explosive aromas of ripe peach, crushed stone, lavender sea salt and spices. Wonderfully rich and broad without any excess weight, with strong acidity and crushed-stone minerality leavening the fine-grained flavors of orange cream and fleur de sel. Best today on the slowly building, refined finish, which leaves the mouth vibrating…

Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

The 1982 Dom Pérignon Rosé is pretty, but it is also quite forward. Dried red cherries, crushed flowers and spices lift effortlessly from the glass. The 1982 still has good depth, but the flavor profile is now close to fully tertiary, so there is really nothing to be gained from further cellaring.