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Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

I tasted the 1982 Lynch-Bages twice within a month, both at a private dinner in London and at the château, from bottle and double-magnum on separate occasions. Both vindicate an exceptionally fine 1982, perhaps a bit overlooked in a vintage full of stars. Curiously, the bottle in Bordeaux does not fully deliver the mesmerizing freshness…

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

A heady, exotic wine, the 2003 Mouton Rothschild takes hold of all the senses. The ripeness and exuberance of the year comes through in spades as this dramatic, opulent wine shows off its radiant personality. The 2003 can be enjoyed now, but it could also use another few years for the tannins to soften. Still,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good medium ruby. This is downright exotic on the nose: mocha, coffee, graphite and coconut, lifted by sandalwood and cinnamon spice. Then dense, supple and fine-grained without coming across as heavy. Suggestion of aromatic tree bark. A seamless wine that spreads out horizontally on the back end and finishes with very fine tannins. A bit…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Mouton Rothschild has a powerful nose with slightly smudged summer fruit, leather, dates, forest floors and a touch of eucalyptus. The palate is medium-bodied and fleshy, with powdery tannins and better acidity than the Clerc Milon. It’s quite tertiary, with just a little VA on the roasted coffee bean finish. The question is…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Medium red. Aromas of redcurrant, tobacco, leather and menthol are a bit medicinal in a ripe, red fruit way. Ripe and sweet, with strong acidity that will need a few years to integrated with the wine’s tart red berry flavors. Finishes with firm-edged tannins and tangy notes of raspberry and pomegranate. Very fresh Beaune wine…

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Bright, deep red. Sexy aromas of black raspberry liqueur, dark chocolate and nutty oak. Concentrated, sappy and primary, with sweet black fruit and mineral flavors complicated by wilder notes of game and gunflint. Very rich, structured and persistent, finishing with tongue-dusting tannins. Ripe but not roasted.