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Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru is more floral on the nose compared to the preceding Les Séchets. White flowers, dandelion and touches of orange zest develop in the glass, precise and finessed. The palate is structured with good grip and a slightly waxy texture, building beautifully toward a very persistent finish. Give this 2–3…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2008 Brut Rosé Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon explodes from the glass with a mesmerizing array of aromas, flavors and textures. Blood orange, cinnamon, mint and dried flowers. The 2008 is incredibly young, but it is also incredibly tempting. Patience will be rewarded. In the meantime, readers might enjoy adding a few bottles of the stellar…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 La Mission Haut-Brion has a wonderful, extravagant bouquet with a slight medicinal note (not apparent on the bottle poured blind the following week) infusing the precocious red fruit, all beautifully defined with star anise and bayleaf developing. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, very well judged acidity, precocious in style with a…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, deep ruby. Brooding, complex cabernet sauvignon-dominated nose of uncommon depth, offering notes of cassis, cigar box, minerals, cedar and dry herbs. Extremely pure and fresh, with massive but still totally unevolved flavors of blackcurrant, dark plum and minerals. I love this wine’s impeccable balance and smooth, tactile finish. A monumental La Mission with outstanding…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(Leognan (47% merlot, 47% cabernet sauvignon and 6% cabernet franc; a selection of 50% of the crop; 14.7% alcohol; pH 3.84; 78 IPT)) Deep ruby. Captivating aromas of strawberry and raspberry complicated by strong mineral and tobacco nuances. Remarkably graceful-almost weightless-in the mouth, with very nice depth to the pure red fruit, cedar and mineral…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 La Mission Haut-Brion has a very harmonious bouquet with detailed blackberry, raspberry, warm gravel and hints of leather, gaining intensity with aeration. The warmth of the summer comes through, although it does not impede upon the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, not quite as finessed as the nose suggest….