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2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Saturated ruby. An impressively complex nose evokes blackberry, dark chocolate, violet and cigar tobacco, with a strong spicy note emerging with air. Offers sweet, deeply pitched dark fruit compote and floral pastille flavors that are given spine by juicy acidity. No way I’d guess from this wine’s concentration that it was an ’08. Finishes with…

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

(60% grenache, 39% syrah and 1% counoise): Vivid purple. Cherry and dark berries on the highly fragrant nose. Suave and expansive, with impressive depth to its ripe dark fruit flavors, which are braced by tangy minerality. Becomes spicier with air and finishes with impressive clarity, sappiness and length.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reds: The Flamboyant 2014s and the Structured 2013s (Apr 2016)

Opaque ruby. Deep-pitched black and blue fruit liqueur aromas are complemented by suggestions of licorice and cola. Broad, sweet and fleshy, offering concentrated blackberry and boysenberry flavors enlivened by juicy acidity and a peppery spice nuance. Tightens up slowly on the youthfully tannic, focused finish, which clings with resonating spiciness and outstanding tenacity.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Gold-tinged color. Deep, maturing aromas of toffee, butterscotch, ginger and molasses. Fat and rich in the mouth, with excellent intensity; in the mature Bollinger style but far more successful than the bottling from the lower-acid 1989 vintage. Thick with extract, and palate-staining on the aftertaste. A main-course Champagne.

Lagrange 1959-2015 (Dec 2020)

The 1995 Lagrange was picked from 21 September until 5 October. This has quite a compact bouquet that needs aeration, eventually revealing attractive brambly red fruit mixed with sage and thyme, brown spices and sandalwood. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity and a rounded texture. The fruit seems to be finally drying…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(44% cabernet sauvignon, 43% merlot and 13% petit verdot) Medium ruby-red. Flamboyant aromas of smoky black cherry, beefsteak tomato, roasted herbs, espresso, underbrush and truffle. Smooth and fat, with sweet dark berry flavors and lush texture, if not the normal clarity of Lagrange. Finishes with tongue-coating tannins that arrive late. Just now reaching its peak….