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Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2005 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, tasted from magnum (for some reason, it always seems to turn up in this format), is one of Sylvain Pitiot’s greatest successes. It was picked September 21 to September 24 (at 11am, to be exact). The yield was 27hl/ha with 14° alcohol. The precocity of the growing season…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, cropped at 35hl/ha, is the first year farmed biodynamically. This was completely breathtaking in barrel, and now, in bottle, nothing has changed in that respect. It has an ineffably complex bouquet, not as intense as it showed in barrel yet extremely deep and cerebral, black fruit mingling with…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(an approximation of the final blend): Bright, deep red. Very pure but reserved aromas of raspberry, crushed rock, rose petal, spices, mocha and tobacco, lifted by a calcaire pungency. Compellingly silky and seamless but with terrific energy and subtle intensity to its dense flavors of red berries, dark cherry, spices and powdered stone, complicated by…

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Good full red. Slightly reduced but complex aromas of black fruits, pepper, violet and minerals. Supple and deep, with a fine-grained texture and solid underlying structure. As creamy as this is, it remains light on its feet. Finishes very long and subtle, with a whiplash of pepper and mineral flavors conveying an impression of strong…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Murgers 1er Cru is very different from the Les Boudots, featuring vibrant red rather than black fruit and fine delineation; the essence of Pinoté in a glass. There is something carefree about the aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Silky-smooth and Vosne-like…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is quite closed on the nose, offering discreet blackberry, raspberry and light violet aromas that you might mistake for a Vosne-Romanée. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins. This is a juicy Clos de Vougeot, a little savory and quite peppery on the finish, which you might…