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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good full medium ruby. Perfumed aromas of cassis, redcurrant, plum, minerals, coconut and violet. Lush, dense and gentle; rich and chocolatey. With so much baby fat, this wine appears to miss out on ultimate clarity and grip. But finishes tight, with a touch of austerity and nicely restrained sweetness. Still quite young. Drink 2005 through…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Bright gold. Deep, subtly smoky nectarine and musky yellow plum aromas are energized by a suave mineral quality. Broad and fleshy, with deep, chewy pear, pit fruit and buttered toast flavors. A serious style, with velvety texture and excellent finishing punch. This has the concentration to repay cellaring but is open-knit enough to enjoy on…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1993 Lafite-Rothschild has been a rather vexing wine in recent tastings. This time is no different. Like before and typical of the vintage, it feels austere and dry on the nose and you yearn for more fruit. The palate is redeemed by a fine bead of acidity but otherwise this is an atypically brutish…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Palmer has vied with the 1983 as the highlight of the decade, so it is fascinating to revisit it at 30 years old. It has a wonderful bouquet of degraded red berry fruit, singed leather and hints of game and mint, beautifully defined and still so fresh, yet undeniably old-school in style. The…

The Best New Wines From Spain (Sep 2004)

Medium red. Complex aromas of cinnamon, minerals, chocolate, macaroon and smoky oak. Juicy, vibrant and penetrating, with still-youthful flavors of strawberry, exotic spices, chocolate and minerals. Not at all a sweet style of wine but offers lovely energy and cut.

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly has a more opulent bouquet than its peers with gorgeous pure red cherry, kirsch and blackcurrant notes laced with sage and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe fruit, voluminous compared to its Pessac peers but lacking a little cohesion and precision on the finish. Two bottles opened as there was…