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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly has a more opulent bouquet than its peers with gorgeous pure red cherry, kirsch and blackcurrant notes laced with sage and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe fruit, voluminous compared to its Pessac peers but lacking a little cohesion and precision on the finish. Two bottles opened as there was…

Central Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages
 (June 2007)

The 2004 Sassicaia is a lovely, understated effort. Medium in body, it presents nuanced layers of sweet dark fruit, licorice, menthol and toasted oak that gradually open onto a finely-knit frame of notable length. Today it appears to be quite reticent and still holding back much of its potential. Both bottles I sampled showed less…

Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 2006 Vieux Château Certan has quite an "airy" and well-defined nose that seems to side with the Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon. Brambly red fruit intermingles with pencil lead and subtle slate aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and feels cohesive. Fine grip, quite sturdy with a dense finish, perhaps it has dispensed with some of the precision…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good full red-ruby. Very sexy aromas and flavors of black raspberry, blackberry, roasted coffee, violet and licorice. Lush, silky and highly concentrated, with an utterly seamless texture to the middle palate. Wonderfully, ripe, broad, merlot-based wine; solid as a rock but utterly pliant. Finishes with captivating lingering sweetness, the broad tannins completely buffered by the…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Medium red-ruby. Cherry and mint aromas suggest a very fresh wine. Pliant and sweet, with moderately intense flavors of black cherry, raspberry and menthol. Finishes with dusty tannins and good length.

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Clos du Clocher offers good density and plenty of power. Mature aromatics and potent, searing tannins argue for drinking this sooner rather than later. This is a decidedly heady, extracted style. I find the tannins and finish a bit astringent.