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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(vinified with 50% whole clusters; just 17 hectoliters per hectare produced): Healthy bright, full red. Pungent aromas of dark raspberry, humid stone and crushed-rock calcaire. Offers compelling volume without heaviness, displaying superb density and depth to its flavors of dark raspberry, exotic spices and minerals. Conveys a rather saline, high-pH impression (probably around 3.7, according…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru has a very pure bouquet, with a beacon of red berry fruit, neatly integrated with the oak. There is a nobility here, though perhaps it is a little more understated than I would expect considering the vineyard. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.5% alcohol; vinified with 60% whole clusters): Bright dark red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, blueberry, minerals and musky earth. Wonderfully silky, plush and fine-grained, with its atypical fat nicely leavened by smoky, crunchy minerality. I find this wonderfully rich Les Amoureuses gentler in the early going than the Bonnes-Mares but it may need just…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is showing more oak on the nose compared to Bruno Clair’s Bonnes-Mares tasted alongside, although there is clearly sufficient fruit behind to support it: blackberry, blueberry and a touch of boysenberry. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit laced with black tea and a touch of iodine, then a…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the crop level averaged just 26.5 hectoliters per hectare but Roumier had frost issues only in his vines closer to the village of Chambolle, with one of his northern plots–on red soil–yielding 40 h/h): Bright medium red. Sexy, slightly high-toned aromas of raspberry, mocha and minerals; but a bit less floral than usual at this…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a beautifully defined nose, fresh as a daisy, yet unapologetically primal, requiring another 10-15 years to display its terroir. Everything is here on the palate: fine-boned tannins, layers of dark cherry and cassis fruit with underlying raspberry notes. It feels finely chiseled with just the right amount of opulence…