Archives: Product Reviews

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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Bright ruby-red. Wonderfully expressive nose combines black raspberry, mocha, hot stones, caramel and tobacco. Lush, fat and full but with terrific definition and suavity to its extravagantly dense black raspberry, stone and licorice flavors. As large-scaled as this is, it’s not at all overly sweet. Expands impressively on the back half, finishing with substantial tannins…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Château d’Angludet contains less Merlot and more Petit Verdot due to the three-week frost. Daisy Sichel told me that it was aged in 50% amphora this year. It has a relatively light yet well-defined bouquet featuring strawberry and red cherry scents. The palate delivers fine tannins framing the red fruit, quite Burgundian in…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Château d’Angludet contains less Merlot and more Petit Verdot due to the three-week frost. Daisy Sichel told me that it was aged in 50% amphora this year. It has a relatively light yet well-defined bouquet featuring strawberry and red cherry scents. The palate delivers fine tannins framing the red fruit, quite Burgundian in…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Medium ruby-red. Inviting aromas of plum, warm stones, red licorice and menthol. Suave, gentle and elegantly styled; distinctly sweeter and lusher today than the La Mission, with even more mid-palate depth. Showing more red fruits today as well, with pungent minerality giving the wine lift and juiciness. Finishes with suave but substantial building tannins. Last…

Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)

The 1966 Ausone is a disappointing wine in the context of one of the best vintages of that decade. Smudged on the nose with pencil shaving and singed leather scents, it develops caramel aromas with time and then skulks off within four or five minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with soy-tinged black fruit, some VA…

Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)

The 1966 Ausone is a disappointing wine in the context of one of the best vintages of that decade. Smudged on the nose with pencil shaving and singed leather scents, it develops caramel aromas with time and then skulks off within four or five minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with soy-tinged black fruit, some VA…