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New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(60% pint noir and 40% chardonnay; 71% of the fruit is from grand cru sites and rest from premier crus; disgorged February, 2011): Light gold. Ripe pear and honey on the explosively perfumed nose, with sexy floral and marzipan nuances expanding with air. Fat, full and palate-coating, boasting impressive power and thrust. Shows an intriguing…

The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 1985 Rauzan-Ségla is a vintage that I have tasted several times from bottles I picked up cheaply some years ago. I was particularly effusive about the 1985 although, I feel that it has decayed a little since my last note in 2010. Soft red berry fruit, hedgerow, sage and mushrooms on the loose-knit nose,…

2013 Barolo: Sublime Finesse & Elegance (Feb 2017)

The 2012 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is bright, pulsating with energy and finely chiseled to the core, but today it is the wine’s creaminess and center of fruit that come through most. There is considerable fruit density in the glass, but the 2012 is also dense and closed in on itself. Readers will have to be patient;…

2011 Brunello di Montalcino: Terroir Matters (Feb 2016)

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is magnificent. Huge swaths of tannin coat the palate as the 2010 shows off its power, breadth and overall intensity. Plum, black cherry, bittersweet chocolate, smoke, licorice and cloves are some of the many notes that hit the palate. The Riserva is dark, powerful and brooding. It…

Exploring the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2014)

The 2012 Redigaffi jumps from the glass with explosive dark blue/blackish fruit. Rich, voluptuous and impeccably textured in the glass, the 2012 boasts massive depth and concentration, yet retains tons of freshness. Silky tannins round out a finish laced with melted road tar, herbs and leather. For such a big wine, the Redigaffi is remarkably…

Tuscany Part 2: Bolgheri, the Tuscan Coast and More Super-Tuscans (Dec 2014)

Bright ruby-red. Coffee and cocoa­ nuances almost overpower the wine’s delicate violet and dark berry aromas. Then rather graceful in the mouth, with a distinct delicacy to the dark berry, cocoa and coffee flavors. A lighter Redigaffi than usual, but harmonious and refined.