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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

(4.7 g/l total acidity; 13.4% alcohol): Deep ruby-red. Still youthfully closed but highly complex nose hints at cassis, minerals, gunflint and Oriental spices. Quite clean and juicy, boasting lovely precision and size to its flavors of small dark berries, smoky plum, coffee and minerals. This pure, long wine finishes with enticingly soft flavors of red…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Lynch-Bages is one of Jean-Michel Cazes’s triumphs. At three decades, it shows absolutely no signs of slowing down. Blackberry and cedar soar from the glass just as they did from the bottle last year, and touches of graphite develop, all beautifully defined and focused. As I’ve proclaimed before, there is such energy and…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, saturated ruby-red. Intriguing nose melds cassis, shoe polish, iodine and mint, along with a faint sweaty quality. Thick, sweet and large but a bit blocky and inelegant. Still quite young and bound-up. A backward, solidly structured wine that finishes with fairly tough tannins. Needs at least another five years of bottle aging. Drink 2007…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1983 Latour is a delightful surprise. It is a vintage that I had not seen for a few years, and I had just two vague recollections of an ordinary First Growth; this was far superior and unquestionably the best bottle I have encountered. Modest bricking on the rim. The harmonious bouquet is fragrant and…

Cellar Favorite: 1928-2011 Lascombes (Oct 2022)

The 2005 Lascombes, served from jeroboam, has a well-defined nose with scents of blackberry, brine and cassis aromas percolating up with time, nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied, with hints of menthol and liquorice infusing the black fruit. There is good density here though it is just missing a little finesse toward the finish. I…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

(52% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot and 3% petit verdot) Good bright ruby. Blueberry and licorice on the nose, lifted by spicy oak. Chewy, lush and dense, but with a sappy quality giving shape to the fruit. Very tactile, solid wine with a saline quality suggesting energetic extraction. But this offers impressive mouth coverage and finishes…