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2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)

Pale color. Intriguing, complex, slightly reduced nose hints at mirabelle, smoke, truffle, minerals and menthol. Fat and full in the mouth, but currently a bit low-toned, with a complicating fusel nuance. Today the element of vanillin oak is quite apparent. Rather unctuous for the property and for the vintage.

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2004 Climens has a strict bouquet that is overshadowed by the superior 2005, a little drier and more timid, candle wax and lanolin permeating the light honeyed fruit. The palate is better with quince, saffron, white pepper and a touch of chlorine. A little bitterness towards the finish lends freshness. Somewhat awkward, yet fascinating….

2008 Sauternes and Barsacs (May 2010)

Bright golden yellow. Fresh apricot, orange oil, hazelnut and racy spices on the tangy nose. Silky, lush and deep, with superb balancing acidity keeping this utterly seamless wine light on its feet. Showing more spice than apricot fruit now but this refined, very long wine is dusty with material and very long and subtle on…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2008 Climens delivers 132g/L residual sugar. It has a much less expressive nose than the 2009: honey, wet wool, slightly petrolly in style. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, great depth and intensity, showing more clarity than the nose suggests. I would afford this another two or three…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1937 Climens is a vintage that I have tasted twice within days of each other. It has a paler colour than expected with dried honey, melted candle wax and dried apricot, not dissimilar to a Tokaji in many ways. Quite well-defined. The palate is fresh with a taut line of acidity, notes of tangerine…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Climens was tasted from two bottles, the first weirdly green. The second was an absolute joy. Well-defined on the nose, it offers lovely beeswax, honeysuckle, jasmine and yellow flowers. The palate is very pure with fine weight, quite tangy, lightly spiced with a pretty marmalade-tinged finish. A very commendable Sauternes in context of…