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1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Expressive aromas of smoked plum, roast coffee, nuts and game. Lush, dense and smooth; currant, cedar and leather flavors are more primary than those of the above wine. Finishes with rich, smooth tannins. Lovely wine.

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2000)

Bright, deep ruby. Syrupy black and red berries and dark chocolate on the nose. Powerful, thick and concentrated on entry, then a bit hard-edged, with bright acidity and a faint greenness. Rather awkward today, with notes of tar, coffee grounds, soy sauce and maple syrup currently overshadowing the wine fruit. Finishes with substantial, dusty tannins….

Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2001)

Ruby-red. Complex, high-toned, oak-driven aromas of mocha, flowers, spices, bourbon, peat, licorice, vanilla, cigar tobacco and earth. Juicy and penetrating, with strong mineral, lead pencil, espresso and tobacco flavors. Has a solid backbone and noteworthy grip, but shows no hard edges. Finishes with big, ripe tannins and excellent length.

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1986 Latour is a vintage that has constantly left me disappointed in context of the growing season and the performance of its peers such as Mouton-Rothschild or Léoville Las Cases. This last bottle did nothing to change my opinion. It just feels enervated on the nose, as if it cannot be bothered to offer…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Deep ruby-red color. More expressive aromas of crystallized dark berries, dark chocolate and animal fur. Lush and sweet; thick but delineated. Wonderfully concentrated. This, too, seems rather withdrawn today, but the strength of material is clear to see. Finishes with firm tannins and explosive fruit that goes on and on.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Exotic aromas of cassis, meat and smoke, plus a whiff of funky wood. Then remarkably sweet, lush and suave, with a flavor of raw berries. Pure Margaux silkiness allied to firm structure. Finishes very long, with rich, sweet tannins. Remarkable wine, particularly considering that the bottle was not perfect. Pristine bottles of this…