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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2013 Batailley has a very light, innocuous bouquet of black fruit infused with gravelly aromas. It feels a little frail, much more so than when I tasted it just after bottling. The palate is medium-bodied with a slight green note on the entry. This does come across as underripe, and as such, I would…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Bright medium red. Liqueur-like ripeness to its complex, soil-driven drive scents of red berries, dried cherry, musky underbrush and minerals, with treble notes of dried flowers and blood orange contributing sexy lift. Large-scaled but remarkably light on its feet, showing almost painful energy to its cranberry and pomegranate fruit flavors. This baby is alive! But…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 60/40 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; pH 3.82; 13.7% alcohol; a 65% selection) Ruby-purple. Knockout nose offers deep aromas of cassis, minerals, cedar, cocoa and coffee. Then very rich and creamy in the mouth, with luscious, extremely concentrated flavors of blackcurrant, blueberry, raspberry liqueur and cedar. Finishes pure and extremely long, with velvety…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cheval Blanc has a surprisingly understated bouquet that unfurls in the glass with perfumed, quite floral aromas of rose petal and violet that complement the red cherries, cranberry and wild strawberry. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, the Cabernet Franc component expressive with brown spice and ferrous notes infusing the fruit….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cheval Blanc has a rambunctious nose with copious red fruit, meat juices, sage and crushed stone aromas, ineffably complex. This is so refined, constantly mutating in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannin. There is a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of cassis, cardamom and allspice. Immense depth…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Flamboyant yet classy aromas and flavors of raspberry, mocha, coffee and herbs. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, but with great lift and perfume giving the wine outstanding inner-palate verve. Wonderfully rich and classically dry Cheval with noble tannins, strong mineral energy and great lingering aromatic character. Atypically full and approachable for young…