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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 La Gaffelière has a rather over-the-top bouquet with smudged definition. It feels as if it underwent a warmer or longer maceration than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly viscous texture on the entry, lower acidity than many Right Banks, glossy and honeyed in texture towards the finish. Not really my…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Cos d’Estournel is beautifully delineated and layered in the glass. A wine of nuance and precision, the 2012 possesses a remarkable combination of richness and detail. A blast of dark red cherry jam, rose petals, mint and cinnamon informs the deep, pliant finish. I imagine the 2012 will offer several decades of very…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(a blend of 75% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot, 5 g/l total acidity; 3.73 pH, 95 IPT; 13.8% alcohol): Bright, full ruby. Aromas of fresh blackcurrant, graphite and bitter chocolate are complicated by delicately smoky minerality and lifted by an enticing floral quality. Fine-grained, generous and sweet, with plenty…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Cos d’Estournel has a perfumed bouquet with blackberry, cedar, undergrowth and black pepper aromas all well-defined and focused, with more vigour than many of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, good acidity, maybe a tad strict and dry on the finish, yet I admire its intensity and terroir expression. There…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

A gorgeous second wine, the 2014 La Dame de Montrose is soft, open-knit and very pretty. Bright floral notes add lift and a measure of elegance to the dark-fleshed fruit. Medium in body, with good depth and fine overall balance, the 2014 is just about as good as it gets for a second wine. I…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 La Dame de Montrose has a relatively straightforward bouquet with tobacco-tinged black fruit that need more focus and detail. The palate is medium-bodied with good density, a little chewy, a Saint Estèphe with sinew and backbone, the finish a little heavy-handed and perhaps trying too hard to impress? Tasted blind at the annual…