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1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

The 1996 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque has really turned a corner over the last six months or so. When it was originally introduced the 1996 was hard as nails, today it is an exquisite Champagne that captures the essential brightness and energy of the year. Lemon, slate, oyster shells and white flowers stain the palate in…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(disgorged in 2008): Yellow-gold. Explosive aromas of ripe pear, honey, gingerbread and iodine, with intense smokiness and notes of chalky minerals and magnolia. Sappy, palate-staining orchard and pit fruit flavors are braced by exotic spice and mineral qualities, picking up notes of buttery brioche and toasted grain with air. Strikingly dense but energetic too, finishing…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 L'Eglise-Clinet is dark, sensual and wonderfully rich. It opens with a silky, captivating bouquet laced with the essence of dried flowers, mocha, chocolate, spice and blackberry jam. While L'Eglise-Clinet is light on its feet for such a big, imposing wine, the 2017 is going to need a number of years to come into…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 L’Eglise-Clinet was picked from 12 to 22 September for the Merlot and on 22 September for the Cabernet Franc. Denis Durantou told me that it is matured in 70% new oak. This has a stunning, mineral-driven bouquet with tightly packed blackcurrant and raspberry fruit, and hints of black truffle that emerge with time….

Vinous Table: NoMad, New York City (Mar 2020)

Initially rather austere, the 1989 Hermitage blossoms beautifully with a bit of time in the glass as it gains depth, volume and complexity. The aromatics and overall vibrancy are just captivating. As gorgeous as the 1989 is today, tasting it I am reminded of the very simple fact that wines are made to be drunk…

Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Ruby-red. Sauvage yet extremely youthful aromas of dark berries, leather, minerals and spices; some high tones quickly dissipated with aeration. Huge, thick, extravagantly rich Hermitage; harmonious even if it still closed in the middle. Extremely unevolved dark berry flavors and a deep core of spice are complicated by notes of wild game and roasted plum….