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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Red-ruby color, not quite as saturated as the ’96. More roasted and less minerally than the ’96: notes of black fruit, game, and toasty oak. Tightly wrapped and rather taut today, but offers terrific concentration and length. Today the wine tannins are very visible, and perhaps not quite as sweet as those of the ’96,…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Bright, lightly leesy aromas of fresh apples, minerals and spices. Fresh, spicy and intensely flavored, but quite austere, almost metallic and not yet demonstrating much personality. But firm, bright and fresh, finishing with good grip. This wine came with an excellent reputation, but I preferred both Pol Roger Rose and Blanc de Chardonnay from this…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Flamboyant, ripe, complex aromas of citrus oil, butterscotch, toast, spice and pit fruits. Very intensely flavored and penetrating, with a ripe, almost roasted suggestion of peach supported by vibrant acids. Yet quite unevolved and laid-back today, with a very dry, almost painfully young but very long finish. Has the structure to age.

Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)

Super-ripe black cherry, plum, smoke, licorice make a strong opening statement in the 2008 Pichon Lalande. The late harvest that year yielded a decidedly super-ripe, exotic Pichon Lalande with captivating inner sweetness and gorgeous textural finesse. Naturally, the 2008 is young. Very young. Even so, it is stunning. Readers looking for an under-the-radar vintage to…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(63% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot, 3% cabernet franc, 5% petit verdot; 13% alcohol; 42 hl/ha; 50% new oak) Opaque ruby-purple. Lovely violety nose offers hints of orange peel, minerals and dried herbs. Somewhat more fleshy and dense than recent vintages, with moderate depth to the raspberry and redcurrant flavors, but turns a little austere on…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has an expressive, open bouquet that is more forward than I would have expected (indeed, there was more degradation on the rim than you would expect.) The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit laced with cedar and sea salt. I like the harmony and the fleshiness imparted…