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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

This is one of the best bottles of 1982 Mouton-Rothschild that I have drunk. Intense and lavish on the nose, this bursts with blackberries, raspberry confit, wild mint and graphite aromas, yet there is a sense of calm and refinement, perhaps less VA than some examples. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced, with some…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Saturated dark red. Pure, subtle, highly aromatic nose of currant, cedar, eucalyptus and exotic oak. Wonderfully silky and opulent, with utterly compelling inner-mouth perfume and chewy depth. Showing spectacularly today and hiding its rock-solid underlying structure. The great finish shows extraordinary aromatic complexity and subtlety, along with big, dusty, fine tannins. This wine is a…

The Wines That Shaped My Life (Mar 2022)

The 1982 Mouton-Rothschild is one that I have not met for quite a while, but it was a pleasure to be reacquainted. Whilst it can sometimes be a little too exuberant, I found this bottle beautifully refined with melted red fruit, red plum and wild strawberry, tobacco and freshly picked mint. Hints of black truffle…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

Deep ruby-red with a hint of amber at the rim. Cassis, licorice, minerals, tobacco and cocoa on the complex nose; this has started to develop more tertiary aromas and is less fruit-forward than just a few years ago. The palate shows considerable sweetness and an almost opulent mouth feel, with blackcurrant and blackberry flavors given…

Vertical Tasting of the Nicolás Catena Zapata 1997-2012 (Oct 2016)

(14% alcohol; 6.5 g/l acidity; 3.45 pH): Bright ruby-red. Very pure, multifaceted nose offers black fruits, dusty spices, game, leather and minerals. Plush on entry, then classically dry and uncompromising, showing a lovely light touch and terrific violet lift to its sharply delineated flavors of cassis, menthol, licorice, bitter chocolate and saline minerality. Very claret-like…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

The 1989 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a slightly diffuse nose that seems fully mature. It’s quite airy in style and lacks presence, which is not a trait that I associate with the de Vogüé. The palate has a grainy texture and thick boned-tannins evidencing maybe a touch of overextraction, and as a consequence…