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2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

A powerful, vertical wine, the 2020 Vieux Château Certan is endowed with tremendous intensity right out of the gate. Everything about the 2020 is dialed up. The fruit is huge, as are the tannins. Black cherry, licorice, new leather, spice and bittersweet chocolate saturate the palate in a wine that conveys opulence from start to…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Vieux Château Certan was showstopping from barrel sample and, now, in bottle? The nose is exquisitely delineated with perfumed black fruit, crushed rock, hints of pencil box, and a very faint licorice scent in the background. Wonderful focus. The palate has marvelous definition, surfeited with tension from the start. It is a little…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Vieux Château Certain is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc (no Cabernet Sauvignon this year). Drought retarded vigor, particularly with respect to the older vines, and picking was carried out September 14–24 for the Merlot and September 28–29 for the Cabernet Franc. Examined over a couple of hours, it delivers…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Mouton Rothschild has come together beautifully since I tasted it from barrel. Today, it is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage. Powerful and statuesque in its beauty, Mouton is remarkable in every way. Layers of dark-toned fruit confer seriousness and intensity that builds with time. All of the finesse I saw…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Mouton Rothschild has a magnificent bouquet that gradually unfolds in the glass to reveal blackberry, iodine, touches of crushed violet and then, with time, that gorgeous mintiness, just like you get in the 1945 (not that this is the 1945). The palate is beautifully balanced with a lattice of fine, succulent tannins, pure…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Mouton-Rothschild is more backward on the nose, graphite and pencil shavings infusing the black fruit, broody at first yet gaining intensity in the glass with each swirl. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine depth, lightly spiced with a vibrant, slightly peppery finish. Impressive weight and length and unequivocally, a long-term…