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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has a detailed nose with citrus fruit and flint aromas unfolding in the glass. This has a “steady” feel to it, aromatics that don’t wish to create too much of a fuss. The palate is balanced with good weight, fine acidity, quite saline but like other Perrieres, it…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a well-defined, tightly-packed bouquet that demanded some coaxing from the glass. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, maybe just a bit too straightforward on the mid-palate but with a pleasant waxy-textured finish. Drink over the next 12-15 years.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Bellevue Mondotte is a full-throttle, exotic Saint-Émilion. Inky dark fruit, gravel, spice, mint, lavender, bittersweet chocolate and black pepper are some of the many aromas and flavors that open as this extravagantly ripe Saint-Émilion shows off its allure. Sumptuous and racy, with firm tannins underpinning it all, the 2018 dazzles right out of…

The Future’s Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Nov 2019)

The 2018 Bellevue Mondotte was picked on 3 October, the same as Pavie-Decesse and in fact Gérard Perse told me that it just took half a day! It has a very pure and seductive bouquet with precocious black cherries and blueberry aromas, vanilla and crushed violets/peony. There is a tad more complexity than the Pavie-Decesse….

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Pale, bright yellow. Lemon zest, orange oil and crushed stone on the nose, with strong calcaire pungency. Densely packed, fine-grained and pliant, showing lovely subtle sweetness to its intense flavors of lemon, lime and crushed stone. This very deep, sappy wine possesses the stuffing and extract to make its alcohol virtually disappear. Very long and…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has quite a precocious bouquet of ample white peach, citrus lemon, smoke and flint aromas that gather momentum in the glass. The palate is saline on the entry. There is fine depth here, and good tension, if not quite the complexity and precision of its peers on the finish. A…