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The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Opaque garnet. Vibrant, finely detailed cherry liqueur, dark berry, exotic spice and floral qualities on the expressive nose, along with hints of mocha and incense. Stains the palate with sweet, penetrating red and dark fruit, violet pastille, chewing tobacco and spicecake flavors that pick up a vanilla flourish on the back half. Smoothly blends power…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1996 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of my favorite wines from this period. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, it has a quintessential Pauillac nose: very intense, brilliant and delineated, with pure blackberry, graphite and mint aromas bursting from the glass. The palate seems to…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Very sexy aromas of currant, blackberry and brown sugar, all lifted by an ineffable floral quality from the thoroughly ripe cabernet sauvignon that comprises three-quarters of the blend. Dense, fresh and thick with extract; a wonderful combination of texture and guts. Has a core of steel and a powerful structure I haven’t found…

Cellar Favorites: 1996 & 1985 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Feb 2016)

What a treat it is to taste these two Pichon Lalandes straight from the chateau’s cellar. The 1996 Pichon Lalande is stratospheric from the very first taste. The deep, layered bouquet alone is deeply transfixing. Smoke, mocha, dark spices, lavender, crème de cassis, a host of dark-fleshed fruits and a touch of warm, resonant sweetness from the…

Outsider Looking In: Sociando-Mallet 1982-2015 (March 2019)

The 2003 Sociando-Mallet is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc picked between September 10 and 24. It was aged in new oak barrels for 11 months. Coming from the north Médoc, it would have enjoyed onshore breezes that mitigated the summer heat. The bouquet shows no signs of that…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

: Good medium ruby-red color. More grilled on the nose than the 2004 or 2005: superripe black fruits and bitter chocolate. Then liqueur-like verging on confectionery in the mouth, but with surprisingly healthy acids giving shape to the dominant black fruit flavors. At once velvety and quite powerful, with the fine-grained tannins currently conveying a…