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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Tour Maillet is a rich, plush wine endowed with notable depth and textural resonance. Cedar, licorice, tobacco and crushed flowers wrap around a core of pliant fruit in this racy, voluptuous Pomerol. Drink it over the next handful of years.

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(3.7 pH; 85 IPT; 14% alcohol) Deep ruby. Fresh aromas of blackcurrant, boysenberry and violet. Enters the mouth tart and fresh, with lively flavors of red berries and minerals, then finishes long and bright, with smooth tannins and a hint of raspberry syrup. This compact, flavorful wine seems to be the most successful La Tour…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru comes courtesy of a bottle that Sylvie kindly gave me when I mentioned that I had recently conducted a horizontal of 2011s. Typically of Esmonin’s style, the bouquet is very closed at first, displaying an almost metallic tincture amongst the black fruit. And this was after a two-hour…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques is simply impeccable. Sweet tobacco, menthol, wild flowers and dried herbs all add shades of dimension to the expressive, dark-toned fruit. The 100% new barrels and 80% whole clusters are both beautifully integrated. Today, the 2011 impresses for its depth and layers of pure flavor.

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Good deep red. Black cherry, licorice, bitter chocolate, flowers and pepper on the brooding nose. Offers good weight and peppery lift to its flavors of black raspberry, dark cherry and spices. Finishes sweetly oaky and long, with tannins that are solid but not at all hard. A superb showing for this consistently excellent bottling, but…

Hungary’s 21st-Century Tokajis (Jun 2014)

Full orange-bronze. Pours thick. Distinctly old-style aromas of dried apricot, nut oil, molasses, hazelnut, smoke, toffee, walnut and truffle. Thick and hugely sweet, with powerful acidity and an orange marmalade quality enlivening the creamy, saline apricot, nut and earth flavors. Plenty of supersweet honeyed botrytis here. (An earlier bottle showed honeyed botrytis tones and huge…