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Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Opaque ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red/blue fruits, pungent flowers, garrigue, licorice and exotic spices. Stains the palate with deeply concentrated, spice-laced black raspberry, boysenberry, fruitcake and floral pastille flavors underscored by a vein of juicy acidity. Shows superb clarity and floral lift on a strikingly persistent finish that features reverberating florality and…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Vivid purple. An explosively perfumed bouquet evokes candied black/blue fruits, incense, vanilla and exotic spices and flowers. Plush, broad and alluringly sweet, offering palate-coating cherry, boysenberry and fruitcake flavors that are energized by smoky mineral and black pepper flourishes. Shows outstanding energy for its heft and betrays no rough edges. The blue fruit and floral…

The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

Saturated ruby. An exotically perfumed, highly complex bouquet evokes raspberry preserves, smoky minerals, Moroccan spices and incense. Supple, palate-staining red and dark berry liqueur and floral pastille flavors show superb depth, sharp delineation and an energizing undercurrent of smoky minerality. Manages to be at once rich and lively and finishes with outstanding clarity, well-knit tannins…

2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Light, bright gold. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes candied citrus fruits, nectarine, honeysuckle and beeswax, with a bright mineral overtone. Juicy, precise and deeply concentrated, offering fresh orchard fruit flavors and suggestions of bitter citrus pith and chalky minerals. Gains weight and power with air while maintaining its vivacity and finishes with outstanding clarity, thrust…

2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Light, bright gold. An exotically perfumed, heady bouquet evokes peach nectar, honey, candied ginger and licorice, with a bright mineral topnote. Deeply pitched orchard fruit flavors are complicated by notes of chamomile and fennel, picking up a vanilla nuance on the back half. Completely stains the palate and shows superb energy and focus on the…

An Ineluctable Pair: 2017 Vintage Ports (Jun 2019)

The 2017 Croft Vintage Port was picked from August 31, the earliest since 1945. Deep purple in color, the nose is initially standoffish, checking you out before opening intense black plum and crushed violet aromas, orange blossom and veins of Seville orange marmalade. Yet it is extremely well focused, disguising the warmth of the growing…