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The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Prapò is a tightly wound bundle of energy. Today, the Prapò comes across as reticent, but there is enough depth beneath the tannins and acid to make me think all it needs is time to unwind. Sage, tobacco, dried leaves, licorice, leather and earthy tones add gravitas to this potent Serralunga Barolo…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

A captivating mix of ripe plums, strawberries, cloves, violet pastille, balsam herbs and white smoke emanates from the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino. This is undeniably elegant in feel, showing a weight unexpected from a young Poggio di Sotto, yet working in perfect harmony, with tart cherries and wild berries drenching the palate in primary concentration,…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

A stunning wine, the 2017 Ornellaia offers a captivating interplay of richness and energy. Picking early was the key. Young vine Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc were harvested in August for the first time ever. In the glass, the 2017 offers up an enticing mélange of mocha, cedar, tobacco and licorice, with soft curves that add…

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Good full medium ruby. Complex nose combines black fruits, nuts and flowers; strong peppery, vegetal suggestion of young syrah. Quite tight and rather powerfully styled, with an herbaceous suggestion of youthful syrah. Like the ’99, this is tannic, but here the tannins are sweeter and more thoroughly buffered by fruit. Built for aging; may ultimately…

2011 and 2010 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2013)

Vivid ruby. Intense red fruit and floral aromas are complicated by notes of anise, allspice and minerals. Sappy and incisive on the palate, offering pliant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and an exotic lavender pastille quality. Becomes livelier and spicier with air and finishes with supple tannins, outstanding clarity and noteworthy persistence.

Cellar Favorite: 1966 Dow’s Vintage Port (Oct 2020)

Dow’s 1966 Vintage Port is a gorgeous example of the year, offering intense, deeply concentrated cherry liqueur, toffee, candied fig, maple syrup, datecake and membrillo qualities and a vibrant, spicy overtone. Silky and seamless in texture and finely detailed, it seduces with its balance and elegance rather than opulence and power, fully in keeping with…