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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru has just a touch of reduction on the nose, but there is clearly good fruit concentration here, a light waxy aromas emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with a honeyed texture, lightly spiced, riper than the Charmes but without quite the same delineation.

Vinous Table: Mount Sinai Charity Dinner at Saison (Nov 2019)

Burlotto’s 2013 Barolo Monvigliero is a wine I like to serve at dinners like this one, as I know most people may never taste it, which is a shame. Of course, the 2013 is young, but its profound greatness is evident in the early going, The interplay of aromatics, fruit and structure really brings out…

1998 and 1997 Sauternes (Jul 2000)

Captivating, tangy aromas of vineyard peach, pear, white flowers and curry powder. Supple and very concentrated; thick but lively thanks to perfectly integrated acidity. Fruit notes nicely complemented by spice tones. Conveys a tactile impression of extract. Long and strong on the back end. Still quite youthfully unevolved and built for long life.

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

The 2005 Brut La Grande Année hasn’t changed much since I last tasted it about six months ago. If anything, the 2005 is a bit less interesting than it was when I first tasted it. Soft, forward and heading towards maturity, the 2005 is a Champagne to drink now and over the next few years….

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(bottled at the end of March) Good red-ruby. More evolved aromas of redcurrant, plum, cedar, tobacco, leather and oak. Sweet on entry, then distinctly wild, with notes of earth, meat and cedar. Finishes with dusty, somewhat drying tannins and good length. Seems best suited for drinking on the early side, before the fruit dries out.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Mouton-Rothschild contains 20% vin de presse and 12.6° alcohol. It has a vibrant, captivating bouquet that explodes from the glass with precocious black cherries, sous-bois, mint and a touch of Seville oranges, displaying precision and class. The medium-bodied palate shows good density and offers sappy black fruit, white pepper and just a touch…