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Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Bourgneuf, as I found from barrel, does not quite "click" on the nose although, the third and fourth bottles and later tastings attested to a wine beginning to gain more cohesion and refinement. The palate is better with good grip on the entry, quite saline in the mouth with a sapid and nicely…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Bourgneuf has really gained in density over the course of its élevage, while remaining as restrained and understated as it always is. Pliant, silky and wonderfully nuanced with lovely aromatic top notes, Bourgneuf is one the undiscovered jewels in Pomerol – and in Bordeaux more broadly. Expressive floral and savory notes add aromatic…

Cellar Favorite: 1966 Dow’s Vintage Port (Oct 2020)

Dow’s 1966 Vintage Port is a gorgeous example of the year, offering intense, deeply concentrated cherry liqueur, toffee, candied fig, maple syrup, datecake and membrillo qualities and a vibrant, spicy overtone. Silky and seamless in texture and finely detailed, it seduces with its balance and elegance rather than opulence and power, fully in keeping with…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright ruby-red. Vibrant aromas of cassis, blueberry, cedar and graphite. Wonderfully pure and silky in the mouth, with great subtle, slow-building intensity and superb energy and thrust. A real essence of cabernet sauvignon and Mouton terroir This one really rattled my brain-in the gentlest way. As silky as it is, it possesses bottomless depths. Finishes…

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

The 2006 Mouton Rothschild is dark, powerful and intense, with firm tannins that need time to soften. This is an especially dark, somber Mouton. Dark black fruit, smoke, menthol gravel and cured meats are some of the signatures. Slight vegetal notes underpin the fruit. I am not sure the 2006 has enough freshness to be…

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Certan de May was disappointingly skinny when I tasted it from barrel. It has put on weight during its élevage, as one expects, but trust me, this is not up there with the greatest wines from Certan de May. The bouquet is pleasant but does not go that extra mile, coming across a…