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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a light, tertiary bouquet that is very ephemeral, as if a light draught could blow the aromatics away. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins that frame tart red fruit. Quite peppery in style though there is not much weight and grip on the finish at…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 La Grande Rue Grand Cru comes from the famed 1.65-hectare monopole of Lamarche on the other side of the lane from Romanée-Conti. It has another light, airy nose, red cherries and a touch of tertiary scents, missing some of the vigour the 2020 exuded last year. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins….

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has a lovely dark plummy bouquet, kirsch and a touch of liquorice, perhaps a little sur-maturité. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, black cherries, hints of peppermint with a cassis finish. Maybe this just doesn’t quite deliver the persistency that I anticipated when I…

Further Inroads Into Burgundy 2020 (May 2022)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has quite an open and expressive bouquet with blackberry, crushed rock and undergrowth, almost peaty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite gritty in texture and tight with a saline finish. This will require 3-4 years. It is a bit abrasive at the…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru offers darker fruit on the nose, confit raspberry mixed with cassis scents, maybe showing a little overripeness? The volatility begins to impede after 10 minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite velvety smooth with an attractive spiciness that comes through…

Veneto: The Land of Opportunity (Mar 2023)

With the 2016 still being held for release down the road as it slowly comes into focus, today it’s the 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta that is being released into the market. This is dark, sultry and almost animalistic in nature, as crushed fall leaves and earth tones open the experience, giving way to…