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A Splendid 2015 Vintage in South Africa—Time To Discover Swartland’s Wines (May 2017)

(from a single vineyard on soil rich in sandstone): Bright dark red. Scented aromas of raspberry, lavender, tree bark, pepper and spices; I would have guessed that this contained some Mourvèdre. At once brambly and a bit high-toned in the mouth, offering a very suave grain and lovely inner-mouth floral/peppery lift to its raspberry and…

2004 Brunello di Montalcino: A Vintage Full of Surprises (Jun 2009)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a big, super-ripe wine packed with dark blueberries, blackberries, spices and French oak. Rising notes of violets and licorice add a touch of freshness on the close. This is an opulent, soft-textured style of Brunello that offers plenty of richness and density, even if the flavor profile is not…

New Releases from Washington State (Dec 2014)

(13.9% alcohol, from fruit picked on October 21 and 22 at a crop level of roughly a ton an acre, according to Christophe Baron): Bright medium red. Wildly complex scents of red berries, smoked meat, iron, orange peel, flowers, pepper and olive tapenade. Fat, silky and pure, and not at all overly sweet, with distinctly…

1999 Barolo: Brilliance, Intensity and Class (Aug 2014)

A vivid, super-expressive wine, the 1999 Sperss is in a beautiful place right now. The flavors are remarkably nuanced in the glass. Precise but also broad and structured, the Sperss pulses with dark fleshed fruit and plenty of tar, licorice, incense and smoke overtones. What a gorgeous wine this is.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

Good full, deep red. Wild aromas of currant, camphor, leather, tar, dark chocolate and game, with an enticing floral topnote. Lush, sweet and concentrated, but with a powerful underlying spine. Classic sweet-but-dry Barolo of great brooding richness. Quite dominated today by its structure and austere on the aftertaste, but this young Barolo offers terrific depth…

2014 Barolo: Surprise, Surprise… (Feb 2018)

The 2014 Barolo Sperss is an attractive wine from Gaja’s vineyards in Serralunga. There is good depth to the succulent black cherry, plum, smoke and licorice flavors, although it doesn’t quite have the explosiveness or power of the very best years. Because of the wine’s slender personality, the oak is a bit more evident than…