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Valpolicella & Soave: The Times, They Are A Changin’ (Feb 2021)

There is an unbelievable amount of vibrant, unbridled energy in the 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Capitel Monte Olmi. Zesty black cherry, sage, brown spice, cacao and white smoke can all be found here. It’s textural yet juicy in character, mixing savory and sweet with its display of ripe red and black fruits. Long…

The Best of Northern Italy (Oct 2009)

The 2006 Merlot Buri is a massive strapping wine imbued with truffles, melted road tar, blackberries, herbs and minerals. An authoritative, muscular wine, the Buri appears to be headed straight for a period of prolonged dormancy, but when it awakens it will be majestic. All three bottles I have tasted so far have been nothing…

Friuli – Parallel Universes (Dec 2013)

Graphite, smoke, melted road tar, grilled herbs, licorice and blackberries all explode from the glass in the 2009 Merlot Buri. A powerful, structured wine, the 2009 is going to need at least a few years to fully come together, but it is striking even today. The vivid, kaleidoscopic finish is full of Buttrio minerals, crushed…

Friuli Venezia Giulia: The New Releases (Jan 2020)

Fully saturated inky-ruby. Aromas of flint, blackberry, plum, iron shavings and herbs, plus a strong dose of vanilla. Larger and richer in the mouth than the La Mont di Zuc bottling, mainly Buttrio tends to give wines that are just so. The Cossut vineyard is located right above the Baracca vineyard and is aged two…

Exploring Maremma’s 2003 and 2004 Vintages (Feb 2007)

Tua Rita’s 2003 Redigaffi, 100% Merlot, opens with notes of over-ripeness on the nose. An initial suggestion of reduction blows of with air. It presents plenty of fruit, chocolate and toasted oak along with a richly concentrated, opulent personality, yet a note of gaminess and hard, unripe tannins ultimately convey the impression of a less…

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2006)

Opaque ruby-black. Blackberry, espresso liqueur and the licorice aroma typical to this wine are complemented by a stony nuance. Creamy and dense, with lovely chocolate, mocha and herbal flavors that persist impressively on the back end. Ripely tannic, but here the tannins do not become astringent with prolonged aeration, which sets the wine above all…