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The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2000)

Ruby-red. Aromas of cassis, tar and scotch; faint suggestion of mildew. Ripe, rich and rather oaky, with good weight in the middle palate. Slightly dried by the wood on the back end.

Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2001)

Saturated, bright ruby-red. Superripe aromas of currant, spicecake and maple syrup. Fat, sweet and smooth, with an herbal aspect contributing shape and clarity. Finishes slightly dry and rather tannic, with a bit of acidity to be absorbed.

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1988 Petrus is a vintage that I have encountered in two occasions. It is a forerunner for the 1989 and 1990 and frankly, it cannot hold a torch to those twin titans. In retrospect, one can see it more as a small progression from the capable 1987. It has a youthful hue with less…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Bright, moderately saturated medium red. Pure rose petal lift to the aromas of raspberry, menthol and spices. Rather plush and smooth in the context of the year but with surprising inner-mouth lift and smoky minerality to energize its red fruit and spice flavors. This fine-grained, savory, youthful wine finishes with a fine dusting of tannins…

Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999 (May 2019)

Put me on record as saying that the domaine did not make great wines in this year. This bottle of 1989 La Tâche Grand Cru is like others – disappointing. Muffled and lacking clarity on the nose, I cannot get away from the herbal character that either comes from underripe fruit or stems not fully…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Deep, dark red. Multidimensional bouquet of kirsch, cassis, red plum, pipe tobacco, grilled meat, licorice pastille and roasted coffee; this has nearly all of the Chateauneuf food groups. Utterly mouthfilling in its richness, with tremendous concentration of red and dark berries, garrigue, bittersweet chocolate and aged beef. Finishes with a velvety lushness, round tannins and…