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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 La Mission Haut-Brion has a very flattering bouquet with detailed red and black fruit laced with chestnut, cedar and sous-bois. This is supremely well focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins. There is immense depth here, more savoury than expected with chestnut once again, white pepper and a tinge of dried…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 La Mission Haut-Brion has a strict and very focused pencil lead and undergrowth scented bouquet, fragrant and complex, developing a subtle marine note with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, good acidity here with impressive structure. There is plenty of very attractive red fruit, hints of fennel and black pepper,…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

Even though the 2010 La Mission Haut-Brion was poured at the château, Jean-Philippe Delmas had to call for a second bottle as the first was clearly out of sorts. That second is magnificent. Brilliant delineation and almost overwhelming with intensity on the nose, there are layers of black fruit, pencil lead and a strong marine…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(62% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot and 1% cabernet franc; 15.1% alcohol) Deep ruby-purple. D eep, refined aromas of blackcurrant, cedar, minerals and wet stone on the reticent, cabernet sauvignon-dominated nose. Then very dense and powerful on the palate, with pristine blackberry, mineral and forest floor flavors and a supple touch that Haut-Brion doesn’t yet show….

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Pale, bright yellow. A bit deeper-pitched and more subdued on the nose than the Combettes, offering scents of fresh apricot, peach, vanillin oak and spices. Fat, pliant and broad, with its fruit sweetness leavened by saline minerality. Finishes reasonably firm, with good length and lift. This wine shows more mineral energy here than the Champs-Gains…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Clos du Marquis is so expressive, and frankly, delicious. In 2018 there is a bit more richness than typical, but that is 2018. A rush of inky dark fruit, graphite, lavender, spice, crushed rocks and smoke all race out of the glass. All the elements are so impeccably balanced. The 2018 spent 16…