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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Montrose is a magnificent wine and this represents one of the best bottles I have encountered – one that was purchased on release and not moved from Berry Brothers’ cellar since. I have encountered perfect bottles of the 1989, and this flirts with that magic figure. It is blessed with a captivating bouquet…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

When the 1983 Palmer flies high, it touches the stars. This is another bottle proving that at 40 years old it is better now than ever before. It is completely resplendent on the nose that blossoms in the glass with that heady concoction of red and black fruit, freshly-rolled tobacco, violet petals and an underlying…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Red-ruby. Rather evolved, chocolatey nose shows hints of oxidation. Too old in the mouth and starting to lose its fruit. This can’t be right. But I’ve found considerable variation with this wine, with some bottles showing classic Palmer aromas and flavors of dark berries and violet while others have been distinctly leathery and meaty, with…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good medium ruby. Currant, currant leaf, cedar and dusty oak on the nose. Tightly wound and classic, with fabulous acids contributing to its powerful spine. Wonderfully pure and intense, with great verve and grip. But still quite locked up, and hiding its density. Finishes firmly tannic and extremely long. I remember mistaking the ’86 Mouton…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 8% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; pH 3.54; IPT 66; 12.5% alcohol; 90% new oak; an 80% selection): Very deep, saturated ruby with only a hint of garnet at the rim. Ripe red and black fruits, mint, vanilla, minerals and delicate black pepper on the captivating nose. Very rich,…

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

Philippe Dhalluin served the 1986 Mouton Rothschild to wrap up our vertical. The 1986 remains one of my favorite Moutons. A dark, powerful wine, the 1986 is endowed with a vertical sense of structure that is a marvel to behold. Dark stone fruit, smoke, graphite, mocha, soy and licorice are fused together in a marvelously…