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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Moderately saturated medium red. Somewhat riper aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, smoke, tar, tobacco and pepper, plus a hint of green coffee beans. More intensely flavored and vinous than the ’97; in a rather fruity style but a wine of modest sweetness. Finishes with tongue-dusting tannins and more length than the ’97, but still…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full ruby-red. Very reticent aromas of plum, black cherry, leather, dark chocolate and flowers; faint suggestion of surmaturite. Fat with sweet fruit; lush and voluminous for the vintage. Finishes with big but very even tannins that spread out on the palate.

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1996 La Mission Haut-Brion is an improvement on the previous vintage, though it remains a couple of steps behind the high point of the decade, which came two years later. This is quintessential 1996 Pessac, featuring scents of warm gravel and scorched earth on a nose that might be classic to some, but a…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Saturated deep red. Shoe polish, minerals and cassis on the nose, with a hint of toasty oak. Intensely flavored, vibrant fruit shows great middle-palate fullness for a young Lafite. Very long, multidimensional finish of great subtlety. Has the acidity and tannic underpinning for long life. An outstanding, classic Lafite; claret for the millennium. Along with…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

This bottle of 1990 Lafite-Rothschild replicates the one poured at the château several months earlier. The bouquet offers black fruit, a little dustiness, leather and light marine notes, but again, it never slips into fifth gear. It just lacks vivacity. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly hard tannin, modest fruit concentration and a monochromatic finish…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1978 Château Margaux saw a remarkable return of fortunes under their new owners, the Mentzelopoulos family. Crisp and vital on the nose, it is a typical old-school claret armed with black fruit, tertiary scents and a light lavender trait. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity, a little austere maybe, but that is a…