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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Pontet Canet precedes the conversion to organic viticulture, though Alfred Tesseron had already eschewed the use of pesticides and herbicides. It has a slightly rustic nose, a touch of menthol and soot infusing the black fruit, still quite youthful. The palate is bold, firm and surprisingly sweet with black plum, liquorice and cedar….

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Red-ruby. Cool aromas of blackcurrant, espresso and menthol. Then sweet and pliant in the mouth, with concentrated, very pure currant, chocolate and mint flavors. Wonderfully smooth for the vintage. Broadens out impressively on the back end, finishing with firm, ripe tannins. St. Julien

Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Opaque ruby. Highly expressive aromas of candied red and blue fruit, along with suggestions of exotic flowers, olive paste and smoky minerals. Sweet, penetrating and seamless on the palate, offering intense black raspberry, blueberry and floral pastille flavors that become deeper and fleshier with air. Pure and sharply focused, finishing with outstanding clarity, sneaky, well-knit…

Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Opaque ruby. Highly expressive aromas of candied red and blue fruit, along with suggestions of exotic flowers, olive paste and smoky minerals. Sweet, penetrating and seamless on the palate, offering intense black raspberry, blueberry and floral pastille flavors that become deeper and fleshier with air. Pure and sharply focused, finishing with outstanding clarity, sneaky, well-knit…

New Releases from Piedmont: The Stars Are Aligned (Oct 2011)

The 2007 Barolo Cascina Francia is a very unusual wine. In 2007 Conterno decided against bottling his Monfortino. Conterno believes Nebbiolo can handle rain and humidity (hence his decision to make Monfortino in rainy years such as 1987 and 2002), but not drought. The result is a Cascina Francia that is unusually dark, rich and…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Good medium red. Superripe aromas and flavors of cherry, raspberry, smoke, mocha and underbrush. Plush, large-scaled and harmonious from the outset; utterly seamless. This classically dry Barolo, which includes the Monfortino juice, is as chewy as a solid. Saturates the entire palate with broad, ripe tannins. If I had to quibble, it lacks the energy…