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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The bottle of 1982 Léoville Las-Cases was sadly out of condition, though fortunately I tasted another example at a private dinner in Bordeaux a few weeks later. To be honest, I have always preferred the 1985 or 1986 to this vintage, and this gives me no reason to change my mind. It has a surliness…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. Aromas of currant, black cherry, licorice, minerals and flowers. Thick, sweet and deep; still young but in a gentler, lower-acid style than either the ’86 or ’96. Still, this boasts sneaky intensity and wonderful persistence. Tannins are substantial but thoroughly ripe. Drink 2004 through 2025.

Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

The 1999 belongs to the family of warm, ripe vintage at Salon. An atypically big, dense wine by Salon standards, the 1999 is somewhat one-dimensional and not likely to improve considerably from here. At the same time, the 1999 has more than enough depth to drink well for a number of years. All things considered,…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

Bright yellow-gold. Deeply pitched, pungent aromas of candied lemon, pear skin, anise, buttered toast and smoky lees, with notes of ginger and white flowers adding lift. Densely packed yet vibrant, showing impressive power and clarity to its mineral-accented citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Expands on the finish but maintains its focus, picking up iodine and…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2000 Dom Pérignon P2 is striking. More importantly, it is absolutely delicious right now. Baked apple tart, brioche, spice, vanillin, ripe pear and crushed rocks all flesh out. Creamy, layered and inviting, with soft, voluptuous curves, the 2000 offers a lot of sheer pleasure. Although, perhaps not quite as complex or structured as the…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru has just a touch of reduction on the nose, but there is clearly good fruit concentration here, a light waxy aromas emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with a honeyed texture, lightly spiced, riper than the Charmes but without quite the same delineation.