Archives: Product Reviews

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Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Flamboyant, ripe, complex aromas of citrus oil, butterscotch, toast, spice and pit fruits. Very intensely flavored and penetrating, with a ripe, almost roasted suggestion of peach supported by vibrant acids. Yet quite unevolved and laid-back today, with a very dry, almost painfully young but very long finish. Has the structure to age.

Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)

Super-ripe black cherry, plum, smoke, licorice make a strong opening statement in the 2008 Pichon Lalande. The late harvest that year yielded a decidedly super-ripe, exotic Pichon Lalande with captivating inner sweetness and gorgeous textural finesse. Naturally, the 2008 is young. Very young. Even so, it is stunning. Readers looking for an under-the-radar vintage to…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(63% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot, 3% cabernet franc, 5% petit verdot; 13% alcohol; 42 hl/ha; 50% new oak) Opaque ruby-purple. Lovely violety nose offers hints of orange peel, minerals and dried herbs. Somewhat more fleshy and dense than recent vintages, with moderate depth to the raspberry and redcurrant flavors, but turns a little austere on…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has an expressive, open bouquet that is more forward than I would have expected (indeed, there was more degradation on the rim than you would expect.) The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit laced with cedar and sea salt. I like the harmony and the fleshiness imparted…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Deep red. Lively aromas of cherry, redcurrant, flowers, chocolate and tobacco. Intensely flavored, suave and sweet, with ripe acidity framing the flavors of bitter cherry, licorice and loam. Finishes with broad, building tannins and lingering smoky oak. This vibrant Pichon Lalande is built to age.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2002)

Deep but youthfully unevolved aromas of toffee apple, lemon and mint. Penetrating, rich and thick, with a deep, yeasty, baked bread component. At once brisk and seamless but brooding more than expressive today. Finishes long, dry and backward. This may ultimately merit a score in the mid-90s.