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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Montrose has much more freshness than the 1983 tasted alongside. With blackberry, boysenberry, wilted iris flower, loam and clove, it’s pretty complex and certainly more complex than the Lafon Rochet. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, grippy tannins, powerful and burly. Firm tannins, this is serious and lacks a little flair and charm…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good deep red-ruby. Superripe, expressive nose offers black plum, smoke, spices and leather. Denser, sweeter and fatter than the 2006; even more generous and forward today. But this impressively chewy and rich wine also has a powerful underlying spine and plenty of lurking power. Finishes very ripe and very long, with the tannins buried by…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pape Clément is a blockbuster. Rich, heady and explosive, the 2005 packs a serious punch. Inky black fruit, new leather, spice, menthol, chocolate, gravel and scorched earth are all kicked up in this decidedly flamboyant Pessac-Léognan. The 2005 boasts tremendous depth, but equally lavish new oak. Even with all of the oak, the…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 1982 Gruaud Larose has long been a “winner” in this competitive vintage. Gorgeous scents of sloes, loam, leather and wild heather emerge and become more minty as this wine unfurls in the glass. There is just a patina of Brettanomyces in this 1982, but like a dozen or so previous bottles, I have not…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

One of the stars of the vintage, the 2015 Domaine de Chevalier has turned out even better than I expected. Bright floral notes give striking aromatic lift to the rich, sumptuous fruit. A marvelously complete wine, the 2015 is racy and silky on the palate, yet also has tremendous freshness. Bright red cherry, blood orange,…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Domaine de Chevalier has a perfumed, quite floral bouquet with rose petals and cedar infusing the red berry fruit, nicely detailed with blacker fruit uncovered by aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, sweet and rounded, very plush in style with a caressing, femme fatale of a finish. I have actually encountered…