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2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Pale, bright yellow. Very high-pitched aromas of lavender and iodine. Extremely rich and powerful but with a shockingly light touch and outstanding precision to its flavors of citrus fruits, mirabelle, minerals and spices. Just a hint of surmaturite here, but with the lemony acidity and supporting structure for a long evolution in bottle. Finishes with…

The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

Layers of beautifully delineated, expressive fruit emerge from the 2009 Montrachet. The wine blossoms on the mid-palate and finish, with generous, radiant fruit that flows through to the long, sensual finish. This remains a decidedly understated, fresh style of Montrachet. Ideally it needs a few more years to truly come together in bottle, although it…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2005 Dom Pérignon Rosé is an attractive, persistent wine with plenty of character. Sweet dried cherry, mint and rose petals are some of the many nuances that develop with air. Savory notes that are on the edge of vegetal and a real feeling of tannin from the 27% still red Pinot in the blend…

Vinous Table: TORC, Napa, USA (Oct 2021)

The 2001 Bâtard is absolutely stunning. What a wine! It’s everything one could ask for, and more. The aromatics alone are breathtaking. On the palate, the 2001 is vibrant, with the oiliness and texture of Bâtard, but no excess weight and exactly the sort of mellow patina a Grand Cru white Burgundy should show at…

2002 and 2001 White Burgundies (Sep 2003)

(bottled barely two weeks prior to my visit) Aromas of crystallized peach, yellow plum, spices and menthol. At once rich and high-pitched; tightly wound and less showy and sweet than the Bienvenue. A rather austere, even severe style of Batard, finishing uncompromisingly dry but with excellent chewy length.

2004 White Burgundies (Sep 2006)

(tasted from cuve Pale, green-tinged yellow. Reduced, meaty aromas of lime, flowers, vanilla, spices, flint and truffle. Round and broad but with good firm acid spine. This, too, is a bit diffuse today and in need of more verve. Finishes with very good breadth and length. The wine’s acids have not yet harmonized with the…