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Keller Excellence (Mar 2023)

The musky-sweet floral pungency here surpasses even the impressive Abtserde norm, with suggestions of lavender, peony, buddleia and narcissus. The glossy palate delivers bright lemon juiciness suffused with chalk and a sensational concentration of herbal piquancy and floral inner-mouth perfume. The finish offers a vibrant, kaleidoscopic reprise of flavors, and its sheer persistence is unequalled…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy (Mar 2023)

The 2020 La Tâche Grand Cru is very typically La Tâche. Plum, hoisin, spice and blood orange are all amplified in an explosive, massively backward La Tâche that will need 15-20 years in the cellar to start drinking well. As is so often the case, whole clusters lend an exotic spice quality that is front…

Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked 30 August and 2 and 3 September at 29.7hL/ha. This has to be left for 5-10 minutes to unfurl. Complex nose, pressed flowers (peony and iris), hints of Lapsang Souchong and briary, this La Tâche has a cerebral nature that sets it apart. The palate is medium-bodied…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 La Tâche Grand Cru had not been racked and so I was able to taste this from barrel, unlike the Romanée-Conti. It has haunting precision on the nose, introverted at first, dark berry fruit like the Grands-Echézeaux but with more complexity. The palate is very pure with a granular texture on the entry,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full red-ruby. Roasted, smoky aromas of blackberry, blueberry and licorice. Plush, dense and large-scaled; expands impressively in the mouth. Chocolatey-ripe but kept fresh by nicely integrated acidity. Offers lovely sweetness without going over the top. Finishes with big, dusty, horizontal tannins and lovely aromatic persistence. Offers extraordinary texture and depth of flavor for a wine…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2004 Salon (Edition 2019) is fabulous. That is hardly a surprise, as the 2004 has always been magnificent. Subtle, nuanced and classy to the core, the 2004 shows the more refined side of Salon. In that sense, it shares a good bit stylistically with both the 2007 and 2008, but much less so than…