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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1998 Léoville Barton was ordered from the list at the 1925 Bistro in Bordeaux so we could raise a glass to Anthony Barton. This bottle seemed different from my last: more intensity on the nose, a mélange of red and black fruit, brown spices and cedar. The palate is not as light as I…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Léoville Barton has a simple but clean and fresh bouquet: blackberry, wild hedgerow, a touch of fennel and tarragon. There is a hint of tobacco that becomes more evident with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, potent tobacco and leafy notes, a relatively lightweight Léoville Barton that just attenuates a little…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Aromas of black cherry, cedar, graphite and licorice, along with a faint herbaceousness. In a distinctly more austere style than the ’99, and rather unforthcoming today. Has clarity and cut, but is there enough mid-palate material to support the firm tannins?

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Very pure aromas of black cherry and licorice, with faint nutty and herbal nuances; comes across as distinctly riper than the Langoa. Dense and chocolatey, with sound acids and underlying minerality giving the flavors impressive clarity. Richly oaky. Finishes long, with big, ripe tannins.

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(these 70-year-old vines produced a good-size crop, noted Lachaux) Dark red. Brooding aromas of dark berries, bitter chocolate and game. Broader and more muscular than the Hautes Maizieres but with a bit less lift, clarity and floral character. A fat, chewy style, very Nuits-Saint-Georges in its density of texture.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good medium red. Aromas of kirsch and briary brown spices, with a medicinal aspect. Bigger, richer and deeper than the Mazy but more brooding and medicinal today. For its size and concentration, this shows very suave tannins for the year. But has the acid spine for a slow evolution in the bottle. I’d forget about…