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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru was picked on August 28, the first to be harvested this year. It tends to produce very small berries, according to Leroux, which is no doubt why the nose is very intense, with citrus fruit, lemon curd and light patisserie scents. The well-balanced palate is slightly viscous on the entry….

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a clean, precise bouquet displaying impressive mineralité and tension. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Fine focus here, good energy and precision leading to spicy and persistent finish. Maybe not as classy as other Bâtard that I tasted, but let’s see how it will…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(following an early malolactic fermentation, Leroux is intentionally keeping this wine reductive, describing this as the Coche technique): Very reduced aromas of smoke, minerals and clove. Fat, smoky, salty wine with terrific pliancy and depth. A bit lower-toned than some of these 2016s but large-scaled, strong and in need of time in bottle. Musky, smoky…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a ripe, quite candied bouquet laced with orange peel, mandarin and hints of fish oil and linseed. The palate is well balanced with a spicy opening, touches of stem ginger and orange peel laced with marjoram, dovetailing into quite an intense, layered finish that is complex and persistent. It…

The 2015 White Burgundies: A Year of Sunshine (Sep 2016)

(this fruit was picked on September 3; 40% new oak; still at 2.5 g/l r.s. and not yet sulfured): Bright medium yellow. Very ripe stone fruit flavors show a slightly exotic tropical quality. Plush, ripe and sweet, with a distinct thickness to its apple flavor. The long, slowly mounting finish displays terrific soil salinity and…

The 2009 Red Burgundies (May 2011)

The Beaune Bressandes is one of my favorite wines at this address. The 2009 is another strong effort. It is a tightly wound, inward wine with gorgeous aromatics and plenty of structure. The Bressandes remains focused through to the finish, but occasionally shows some of the fragrance and expressiveness that will develop as the tannins…