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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good deep red. A red berry fruit bomb on the nose and palate, with a complicating gamey element. Broad and creamy-sweet wine with nicely integrated acidity. Finishes with firm, toothdusting tannins. More stuffing here than the 2007.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2005 Duhart-Milon is a bit of a beast. Displays quite a dense, unforgiving pencil lead and tobacco-scented nose, and the fruit seems to take a back seat at the moment. The palate is well-balanced but undeniably brawny and rough-hewn, the kind of Pauillac you wouldn’t want to meet down a dark alley at midnight….

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Medium ruby. Superripe aromas and flavors of blueberry, blackberry, bitter chocolate, licorice, menthol and Asian spices. Big, chocolatey and rich; much broader and more backward than the Carruades I tasted next to it but without that wine’s perfume and light touch. Finishes chewy and youthfully medicinal, with a classic dryness and substantial tannins that call…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(91% cabernet sauvignon, 8.5% merlot, 0.5% petit verdot; 38% of the total crop went into the grand vin; 40 hectoliters per hectare produced): Dark ruby-red. Aromatic nose combines blackberry, black cherry, minerals, violet, spices and cedar. Fresh and juicy in the mouth, offering clean flavors of dark berries, graphite and cedar but not the flesh…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

Tasted blind, the 2012 Lafite-Rothschild is a vintage I have not tasted for several years. It has a well-defined nose with slightly leafy black fruit, pencil shavings and cedar. It does not quite deliver the precision of the 2012 Latour tasted alongside, but it is distinctly “Lafite”. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, well…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Lafite-Rothschild has much more fruit concentration and presence on the nose, mulberry, leather, sage and a touch of tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, clean and fresh with impressive purity and body. This feels “grand”, beautifully balanced though I find this attenuates a little towards the finish. Drink now, but it…