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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Calon-Ségur is a vintage that I have tasted regularly over the years. I tasted this wine on two separate occasions, firstly at the property in December 2018 and secondly at a dinner in London in July 2019. Strangely, the latter was a far superior bottle. At 30-years of age it sports thin bricking…

Songs Full of Light – Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1906-2018 (Aug 2019)

The 1998 Lafaurie-Peyraguey is a curious follow-up to the successful 1997. Two or three bottles presented attractive scents of dried honey and yellow plum, although background diesel scents vary from bottle to bottle, lending a Germanic personality. The palate is quite rich on the entry, with hints of caramel and marzipan, and quite forward and…

1999 and 1998 Sauternes (Jul 2001)

Liqueur-like aromas of pear, peach, white plum and honey, along with subtle oak notes. Fat, sweet, rich and oaky; a mouthfilling, honeyed Sauternes showing a bit of youthful aggressiveness. But long on the back end and very promising.

Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Inky ruby. Explosive aromas of red and dark berries are complicated by suggestions of star anise, potpourri and smoky minerals. Rich yet lithe on the palate, offering sweet black raspberry and cola flavors and an intense note of candied lavender. Made in a rich yet graceful style, finishing with superb clarity and length and sneaky…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

(bottled in August) Medium red. Quite closed on the nose a month after the bottling, hinting at strawberry, mocha and musky underbrush. Then big, rich and expansive in the mouth, with a distinctly fatter texture than the 2004 if less complexity. A broad, dry wine that’s huge for a Barolo from this address. Intriguing fungal…

2003 Barolo: Ten Years Later (Jun 2014)

Mascarello’s 2003 Barolo Monprivato blossoms beautifully in the glass with gorgeous volume, polished tannins and lovely overall balance. Red cherries, plums, spices, tobacco and crushed flowers all open up in an effortless Monprivato with plenty of near-term appeal. Here, too, the heat of the vintage is evident, but it is the structure that gives the…