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Vinous Table: Tuscan Dinner @ 67 Pall Mall, London, UK (May 2023)

The 2012 Ornellaia was perhaps a little overawed by the mature Solaia and Sassicaia in the flight. Pretty backward and unresponsive on the nose, I find this a bit simplistic by comparison, with blackberry and bilberry aromas and a touch of VA. The palate is medium-bodied with dense tannins, muscular at the moment, moody and…

The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 1989 Rauzan-Ségla is a vintage that to my surprise, I had not tasted since September 2007. Just like then it represents the high point of the decade and augured a much brighter future in terms of quality. At three decades old it has a beautiful bouquet, so elegant with brambly red fruit, cedar and…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Exotic aromas of cassis, meat and smoke, plus a whiff of funky wood. Then remarkably sweet, lush and suave, with a flavor of raw berries. Pure Margaux silkiness allied to firm structure. Finishes very long, with rich, sweet tannins. Remarkable wine, particularly considering that the bottle was not perfect. Pristine bottles of this…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 28% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot; 3.7 pH; 12.6% alcohol): Red with a pale rim. The fruity nose hints at macerated red cherries, bitter chocolate and dried herbs. Then big, fat and soft on the palate, with fresh, harmonious acidity providing adequate lift to the black cherry, chocolate and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Branaire Ducru has a somewhat conservative bouquet with cedar and graphite scented black fruit, touches of brown spice emerging with time. It never quite clicks into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly drier tannin than its peers, yet well balanced and fresh, hints of sage and bay leaf infusing the black…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, deep ruby. Superripe, brooding aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate and licorice. Sweet, concentrated and fine-grained, with terrific depth to the plush cassis and coffee liqueur flavors. Serious dusty, fine tannins will not stand in the way of early approachability but this wine has the structure for a 20+-year life in bottle.