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Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Bright ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes red berry liqueur, candied cherry, coconut, potpourri, pipe tobacco and exotic spice aromas, all complemented by a smoky overtone. Alluringly sweet, broad and pliant on the palate, displaying a velvety texture to the plush raspberry, cherry cola, floral pastille and coconut flavors. Superb depth and no rough edges….

Barbaresco – Out of the Shadows: The 2016s & 2015s (Oct 2018)

The 2014 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is another of the overachievers in this range. White pepper, bright red cherry, floral notes and mint cut through the fruit in this beautifully vivid, crystalline Barbaresco. There is a level of energy, drive and overall nuance in the 2014 I don’t recall having seen in the past. The 2014…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2015 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a powerful, dense wine. It possesses tremendous richness and tons of intensity. Radiance and phenolic intensity are two of the signatures. That’s about all I can tell you, as the 2015 is nowhere near ready to drink. It does have tremendous potential though, that is clear.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Light straw-yellow. Deep, soil-inflected aromas and flavors of white stone fruits, clove, hazelnut, marzipan, white pepper, smoke and minerals, with a note of orange bitters emerging after extended aeration. Wonderfully rich, silky and mouthfilling but not at all heavy, showing considerable baby fat for young Corton-Charlemagne but with a powerful stony underpinning. Seriously rich, ageworthy…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a slightly muffled, rather anonymous bouquet that requires a little more clarity. The palate is taut and crisp on the entry and the acidity nicely judged, although it needs more persistence toward the saline finish. Not bad and it seems to improve, gaining more refinement with aeration. There is…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(50% vendange entier; from 50-year-old vines):Good dark red. Totally different from the La Justice, conveying lovely _calcaire energy to its pungent raspberry and licorice aromas. Intensely flavored and vibrant, showing good inner-mouth chalky tension to its berry and menthol flavors. A cool, high-altitude style with an intriguing peppery salinity. Really vibrates in the middle palate…