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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Château d’Issan has an open-knit, fresh bouquet with light, tobacco-tinged black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, understated and elegant in style with a Saint-Julien-like finish. Six years ago, the bottle suggested a better wine, indicating that it peaked in the interim. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting.

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 d’Issan has a comparatively simple and straightforward bouquet relative to its peers, a light marine influence evolving with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, well judged acidity, harmonious and precise with a sustained finish. But it does not want to put a foot wrong and consequently there is an air of…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 d’Issan is plump, juicy and delicious. Torrefaction, smoke, licorice, plum, grilled herbs, leather and tobacco give the 2014 its racy, exuberant personality and considerable near-term appeal. This is an especially bold, rich Margaux, but it works nicely. Tasted two times.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Dark berries, violet, licorice and a note of torrefaction. Explosive, pure flavors are almost too big for the mouth. Finishes with big, sweet tannins and expanding, exhilarating flavors of pruneaux and crystallized dark berries. Perfectly integrated oak. A great Latour.

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Latour is a wine that I often find overrated and did not achieve everything that might have been possible in this favourable growing season. That said, this might well be the best of around two dozen bottles I have encountered over the years. As usual, the 1996 is decidedly austere at first, standoffish,…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Deep ruby-purple. Closed but extremely pure and penetrating on the nose, offering delicate aromas of crushed blackcurrant, flint and graphite lifted by a perfumed violet topnote. Very refined and clean on the palate, with concentrated cassis, violet, ink and cedar flavors that are archetypal Lafite. Finishes with the hint of astringency that I find in…