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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright medium ruby. Deep, superripe aromas of dark berries, black cherry and bitter chocolate; slightly exotic crystallized fruit aspect. Dense, sweet and wonderfully rich; a lovely combination of palate-caressing chocolatey fruit and firm underlying structure. Finishes with excellent grip and great palate-saturating sweetness. Another outstanding 1996 Medoc wine in the making. Drink 2010 through 2030.

Margaux Focus 1: Château Durfort-Vivens (Aug 2023)

The 2000 Durfort-Vivens has a funky nose, a bit smudged with dusty black plummy fruit, tobacco and mint. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of espresso on the entry, soft in texture, with dark chocolate on the finish. This bottle is just all over the place, frankly. Tasted at the Durfort-Vivens dinner at Portland…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(a 60/40 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot) Good ruby-red. Sexy aromas of currant, black cherry, licorice, flowers, toffee, menthol and chocolatey oak. Juicy, pure and fairly tightly wound, with lovely acidity giving a briskness to the flavors. Finishes with good definition and grip, and a slight dry edge.

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pavillon Rouge has a really lovely, peppermint-tinged bouquet that is very well-defined and full of vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive concentration. It is not a complex wine, and it might feel just a bit forceful on the slightly leathery finish. But it has a sense of swagger about it that I…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Deep, shimmering ruby. Powerful red and dark berry scents are complemented by exotic spice, garrigue and floral nuances. Sappy and densely packed, offering juicy raspberry, cherry preserve, licorice and fruitcake flavors underscored by a vein of juicy acidity. Gently chewy tannins build steadily on an impressively long, penetrating finish that leaves behind lavender and juicy…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2009 Vieux Château Certan, which has a similar blend to the 1998, was cropped at 40hl/ha. It is fascinating to compare this directly with the preceding vintage. This is ripe and concentrated with black cherries, wild mint and licorice. Typical 2009 Right Bank in style. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, fleshy with…