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2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was one of the best wines of the vintage when I tasted from barrel. This contains 49% whole-bunch (a slightly higher figure than Guillaume Pouthier gave me during en primeur). The barrel-aging has what Pouthier called a “white toasting”, very light, so that you don’t smell the oak (70% new)….

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion includes 45% whole bunch, the same as the previous vintage with 70% new oak, 20% in new 1800-litre foudres and some in amphora. Interestingly, the whole bunch contribution is less evident here compared to the Le C des Carmes, more assimilated with touches of flint and graphite infusing the mineral-rich…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

Technical Director Olivier Pouthier crafted one of the wines of the vintage at Les Carmes Haut-Brion. The 2021 possesses mind-blowing intensity and stunning persistence. Bright red-fleshed fruit, blood orange, mint, dried flowers and exotic spice caress the senses as the 2021 shows off its sheer allure. I don’t think I have ever tasted a young…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Blanc is a powerful deep wine. Low yields in the field resulted in a Blanc of unusual concentration and almost phenolic intensity. Citrus confit, marzipan, chamomile, dried herbs and a touch of new oak flesh out. The Blanc emerges from the former La Tour du Moulin Figeac estate, which is just across the…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Le Petit Cheval Blanc feels more Sauvignon-driven on the nose, Granny Smith apples and gooseberry. A touch of wild nettle emerges with time. The palate is well-balanced with fine weight, not quite as complex as the best dry white in the flight, just a bit too toasty towards the finish. But there is…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is fabulous. White flowers, spices, mint, grapefruit and lemon peel all meld together in a distinctive wine bursting with personality. The flavors are bright and high-toned, while aging on the lees with a little bit of stirring adds texture. Intense, saline notes support the striking, crystalline finish. The 2013…