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1971 x 50 (Feb 2021)

The 1971 Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux is limpid golden in hue. Intense aromas of acacia honey laced with orange blossom and linseed burst from the glass undiminished by the passing years. The palate is well balanced with a slight fumé note that I observed on a previous bottle. Still, it has a gorgeous finish with…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good bright red-ruby. Wild, meaty aromas of black raspberry, roast coffee, minerals, toffee and smoky oak; very Pomerol. Pliant and sweet, with superb depth and an utterly seamless texture to the flavors of black raspberry, mocha and roast coffee. As plush as this Pomerol is, it easily maintains its shape. Dusty tannins spread out to…

New Zealand’s Pellucid Wines: More Light Than Heat (May 2016)

(from a 2001 planting on deep silt soil that’s not too different from Felton Road’s Block 3; vinified with 22% whole clusters): Healthy medium red. Slightly darker and less open to inspection than the Bannockburn Pinot; more brooding on the nose but still more red fruit than black, with attractive floral/spicy lift. A rather tight,…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2014 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru puts in a convincing performance. With brambly red berry fruit on the nose, the coolness of the growing season allows the mineralité of this to really shine, with time in the glass revealing hints of autumn bonfire/fireside hearth. The palate is beautifully structured. It’s saline with darker…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Healthy full red. Compelling soil-driven scents of raspberry, coffee, underbrush and smoky minerality. Wonderfully rich, smoky and deep but also with the vintage’s sappy, floral lift to its raspberry and strawberry fruit flavors. Perhaps best today on the extremely long finish, where the tannins are refined but substantial and will still need considerable patience. A…

Alsace 2012s and Early-Released 2013s (Apr 2015)

Fairly pale gold-tinged color. Captivating aromas of lemon custard, quince, brown spices, smoke and wet stone. Highly concentrated and on the dry side, with a powerful spice character contributing to an impression of power. Conveys a tactile sense of high dry extract and finishes with chewy tannins and lingering notes of bitter orange peel and…