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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Duhart-Milon has always been an impressive wine. Here it has a very intense, backward, graphite and cedar-scented bouquet that just seems to grow in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, crisp acidity, brisk blackberry and raspberry fruit laced with graphite and tobacco notes towards the austere finish. I keep…

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2015 Screaming Eagle is fabulous. Rich and ample on the palate, with soaring aromatics from the Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2015 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. Ripe red plum, pomegranate, mint, kirsch, lavender and sweet spice notes are beautifully delineated in the glass. In this tasting, the Cabernet-based Screaming Eagle is quite a bit more…

Northern Rhône: A First Look at the 2019s (May 2020)

Tasted in components, as usual. #1, from Peleat: spice-accented cherry and blackberry, with a vibrant mineral note in the background. Taut and sharply focused, showing strong tension to the bitter cherry and red berry flavors. The mineral note comes back strong on the back. #2, from Les Beaume: deep-pitched cherry and cassis qualities, plus a…

Exploring Northern Rhône Whites (May 2020)

Tasted in components. #1) Peleat: Emphatically floral, with powerful pear, Meyer lemon qualities, building iodine, fennel and mineral notes. #2) Rocoules Haute: Pungent citrus fruits, pear skin and jasmine on the nose. Weighty yet lithe as well, showing serious intensity to its sappy orchard and citrus fruit flavors. #3) Rocoules mid-slope: Spicy and incisive, showing…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru needed a little encouragement from the glass. Eventually it reveals captivating scents of honeysuckle, petrichor and pressed yellow flowers, an underlying spiciness that comes through with aeration. The palate has a beguiling symmetry from the start: a killer line of acidity counterbalancing the intensity of this Chevalier, gentle grip towards…

2014 Bordeaux: It Ain’t Over Till It’s Over (Apr 2015)

The 2014 Pétrus possesses remarkable density and power, with superb overall depth and an explosive sense of energy that is impossible to miss. Scents of violet, spice and rose petal open up in the glass before the fruit totally takes over. Broad and resonant throughout, Pétrus is one of the bigger, richer wines readers will…