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1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)

Good bright red. Unforthcoming nose hints at red berries, flowers and game. The fattest, sweetest and most voluminous of these ’97s; lush, mouthfilling, utterly silky red fruit flavors offer great appeal. But lacks the cut and inner-mouth perfume of the best years. Finishes very long and fine, with compellingly ripe fruit flavors. Not obviously superior…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Similar deep red. Pungent, slightly sauvage, very ripe aromas of black raspberry, leather, smoke and minerals. Sweet entry, then strongly mineral and quite firm; comes across as stubbornly closed compared to the Pruliers. But this has good firm acids for the vintage. Finishes with a touch of austerity, and subtle persistence.

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Deep, bright ruby. Explosively spicy aromas of blackberry, violet, bitter chocolate and minerals. Sappy, penetrating flavors of dark berries and minerals; dense but sharply delineated, with lovely vibrant fruit intensity. Very long, fruit-driven aftertaste. Possesses more thrust and grip than the domain 2000s. Bertrand Chevillon thinks this wine will close up in the bottle in…

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Medium red. Ripe, smoky aromas of raspberry, cherry and spices. Rich and dense but fresh, with flavors of spiced cherry and minerals. Substantial and concentrated. Finishes with dusty, serious tannins but has the amplitude to support them. Slight suggestion of alcohol.

Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

The 1990 Dom Pérignon Rosé (magnum) is powerful and explosive in style, with superb overall intensity. In this flight, the 1990 comes across as a more polished version of the 1993. Just beginning to enter its tertiary phase, the 1990 is in a great place to deliver maximum pleasure. Autumn leaves, crushed flowers mint and…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Pale orange-bronze color. Pinot-like aromas of blood orange, game, smoke and earth, along with hints of orange marmalade and peach; the nose of this wine always reminds me of Nuits-Saint-Georges or Vosne-Romanee. Very intensely flavored, ripe and tactile, but without an ounce of excess weight. Compelling flavors of wild red fruits, spices and earth; very…