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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a straightforward bouquet with brambly red fruit with a touch of sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly lactic entry, lower in acidity than maybe other cuvées though the fleshiness on the finish is appealing. Quite pure too.

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2016 Saffredi is even better from bottle than it was from barrel – and that is saying a lot. A ton, in fact. Soaring in its concentration and scale, the 2016 boasts superb intensity in all of its dimensions. Readers who want to understand how magical the 2016 is will find the answer here….

Sonoma’s Sensational 2015s (Mar 2017)

The highlight in this range from Occidental, the 2014 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvée Elizabeth is brisk, perfumed and aromatic. It is also nowhere near as alluring for the near term as the Sonoma Coast or Occidental Station. Here the expression of fruit is intensely linear, with biting acidity and plenty of tannic underpinning. Blue…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru is initially understated on the nose, unfolding with brambly red fruit, undergrowth and just a light touch of morels. Very succinct with a kind of broody intensity – but maybe a touch of Brettanomyces? The palate is well balanced with a note of sour cherry and wild strawberry on the…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru clearly has the most complexity and amplitude on the nose, featuring blackberry, briar, raspberry and crushed stone aromas; this feels complete and very harmonious. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, a fine bead of acidity, superb structure and wonderful salinity and cohesion on the persistent finish. Très Chambertin…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2013 Brut Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons is outrageously beautiful. I remember tasting it as vin clair in March, 2014. Today, as a finished Champagne from bottle, the 2013 captures all of the intense ripeness and bright acidity that make this vintage so exceptional. A wine of cut and brilliance, the 2013 will thrill readers…