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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium red. Raspberry, iron, coffee and truffle on the nose, along with an intriguing autumnal quality. At once silky and vinous, with slightly edgy acidity and noteworthy class. Finishes firmly tannic and extremely long, with a slightly bitter edge. 92. My second bottle was distinctly stronger: Bright full red. A coulis of raspberry and…

Vertical Tasting of Château Trotanoy (Mar 2012)

95% merlot and 5% cabernet franc): Deep, saturated red. Highly perfumed nose of black plum, lavender, cedar, chocolate and Oriental spices. Enters sweet, round and broad, then turns a bit tougher, with hints of earth and game complicating bright cassis and mocha flavors. There is an amazing freshness to this wine that helps extend the…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby-red. Liqueur-like aromas of kirsch, blueberry, truffle and dark chocolate. Sweet, chewy and impressively concentrated, with terrific grip. But this extremely young and powerful Trotanoy is still a bit disjointed today, presenting liqueur-like southern flavors as well as a medicinal component. Finishes long and firm, with terrific grip. Not quite as stylish as the…

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2019 Barolo Paiagallo is a gorgeous wine from Giovanni Canonica. Kirsch, orange peel, cinnamon, cedar and new leather take on an exotic quality in a deep Barolo that marries a super-ripe profile with classic structure. The 2019 is a bit wild. Candied fruit lends a racy quality, but the tannins are decidedly forbidding. With…

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2018 Barolo Paiagallo is laced with kirsch, sweet spice, new leather, menthol and rose petal. Exotic and super-ripe, the 2018 shows all the warmth of the year in its sweet fruit and pronounced alcohol, but avoids the angular contours that afflict so many wines. Even with all of that richness, the 2018 retains a…

2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett has a very open but tender nose: ripe greengage is bright and edged with a whisper of chervil. The sweetness on the palate kicks in first, but lightness takes over with serene lemon freshness and fine, almost earthy stone. Ripe greengage, delineated by lemon, soaks up that initial sugar and…