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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Canon La Gaffelière is a big wine. Inky red fruit, mocha, espresso, licorice, dried flowers, mint and tobacco all flesh out in the glass. Although the 2005 possesses remarkable density, the aromatics seem to be travelling on a faster trajectory. That said, the cork on this bottle was not perfect. Readers who own…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Pape-Clement Blanc has a seductive, creamy bouquet with crème brûlée, peach skin scents developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a thick veneer of new oak, creamy and commercial, not a dry white with scintillating terroir expression but you still find yourself taking sip after sip of this heady wine….

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright, dark red. Slightly high-toned aromas of dark cherry, menthol, earth, leather and minerals; I might have guessed Nuits-Saint-Georges. Surprisingly supple and sweet in the mouth, offering considerable early appeal. Not especially complex but nicely full and satisfying. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and lingering suggestions of leather and saline minerality. This wine was vinified…

The Good, Bad and Ugly: Burgundy 2010, 2003 & 2004 (Jun 2020)

The 2004 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru from Rossignol-Trapet has one of the best aromatics from among 13 wines tasted from this infamous growing season. No greenness here, just delightful red cherry, crushed strawberry and light white peppery aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins and decent if decayed red fruit. The slightly dry yet still…

Domaine Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin (Jun 2016)

The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin captures the richness of the year in its pliant, open personality. Wonderfully dense and expressive, especially for a village-level wine, the 2005 is drinking beautifully today. Worn-in leather, spices, tobacco and dried dark cherries meld into the succulent, expressive finish. This is a terrific village-level offering from Rousseau.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 500-$2,000) Deep ruby-red. Reticent, brooding aromas of cassis, black plum, graphite and flowers. Then utterly explosive in the mouth, with wonderful sappy complexity of flavor and a thickness of texture that builds and builds toward the back; almost no sign of the new oak here. Offers a near-magical combination of power and refinement, but…