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2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good medium red. Deep but closed nose hints at cherry, herbs and damp earth. Then large-scaled and explosive in the mouth, with a compellingly creamy quality to its red fruit and licorice flavors. Approachable now for its sheer sweetness and generous mouthfeel, this thick but shapely wine nonetheless needs time in the cellar to show…

Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)

In a vintage in which so many wines are all about intensity, 2009 Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Champans (magnum) impresses for its perfume, delineated fruit and fabulous overall balance. Refined and impeccable in its sense of restraint, the 2009 is so very pretty and expressive. Silky tannins round out the racy, polished finish. What a gorgeous…

2016 Bordeaux: It’s Now or Never, Baby (Apr 2017)

The 2016 d’Yquem is a magical wine. It also looks like an Yquem that will drink well right out of the gate. Like so many of the better wines in this vintage, it manages to express richness while avoiding excess heaviness. Pineapple, orange marmalade, exotic flowers and spice all blossom in the glass. There is…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2016 Yquem was picked from 27 September until 4 November after drought-like conditions in the summer. It has an attractive nose with white chocolate, chamomile and Chinese white tea infusing the honeyed fruit. Very well defined and focused with more cohesion than previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous opening that demonstrates…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 d’Yquem is without question one of the wines of the vintage. Just as alluring from bottle as it was from barrel, the 2015 is a wine that engages all of the senses, from the intellectual to the more hedonistic. Lilting notes of pineapple, mint, orange peel and white flowers grace the palate, but…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2015 Yquem has always been a vintage that I have approached with caution. It was a very early harvest that began on 3 September and finished on 21 October after temperatures fell during the picking. As usual, I have reservations about the nose that, for me, lacks the cohesion and complexity of the 2014….