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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Mouton-Rothschild has more lift and fruit than the Château Margaux tasted alongside. Fine delineation, briary and clove commingles with mint and loamy scents. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s clean with an edgy and tensile finish. Given the growing season, this is a classy Mouton-Rothschild, satisfyingly harmonious and persistent. Tasted at…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Opaque ruby. Dark berry preserves, fruitcake, pipe tobacco candied flowers and a hint of vanilla on the deeply perfumed nose. Stains the palate with sappy black and blue fruit, mocha, licorice and rose pastille flavors and exotic spice and mineral nuances add energetic lift. Fleshy and deep but lively as well, with an impressively long,…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Château Margaux is blessed with a stunning nose that delivers intense blackberry and cranberry scents, crushed rose petals and touches of slate. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, taut and quite linear with an effortless and precise finish that is a pure joy. You have the sense of a Château Margaux…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 87% cabernet sauvignon, 9% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; pH 3.79; 13.3% alcohol; represents a stringent 36% selection) Good full ruby-red. Pure, ripe aromas of cassis, graphite and cedar, lifted by floral and mineral high notes. Dense and amazingly concentrated yet light on its feet, with compelling, extremely pure…

Napa Valley: The Frantic 2020s & Stunning 2021s (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Harlan Estate is supremely elegant. Bright floral accents perk up a core of red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, sage and mint all run through the 2019. Medium in body and gracious, the 2019 is all energy. It’s not so much a wine of a vintage, but rather a wine that reflects the personality…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

Tasted from barrel, the 2019 Harlan Estate is relatively soft and open-knit. Lifted aromatics and silky tannins lend a fair amount of approachability. Crushed flowers, sweet bright red berry fruit, spice and orange peel linger. The 2019 is shaping up to be a real charmer. I have to think I caught it at an especially…