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Salvioni: Brunello di Montalcino 1985-2011 (May 2016)

Dark, rich and enveloping, the 2007 Brunello di Montalcino races across the palate with stunning depth and richness. The flamboyance and opulence of the year come through loud and clear. Given its breadth and pure intensity, the 2007 is likely to drink well for quite some time. On this night, it is absolutely gorgeous.

Brunello di Montalcino 2007 and 2006 Riserva (Jul 2012)

Good full red. Perfumed, complex but subdued nose offers cherry, raspberry, coffee, mocha and minerals. Densely packed and sweet but backward for 2007, a bit youthfully clenched in the mid-palate. Finishes chewy and powerful, with serious mounting tannins, a blast of red fruits and complicating notes of menthol and licorice. For the cellar.

Veneto: A Constant State of Evolution (Feb 2024)

The 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Sant’Urbano is a seductress, with a wildly fresh yet sweetly alluring bouquet that blends crushed black cherries, blueberries, balsamic spices and violet florals. This is cool-toned yet dense and powerful, with depths of dark red and blue fruits that saturate the senses as a twang of sour orange adds…

Vertical Tasting of Trimbach’s Riesling Clos Ste. Hune (Mar 2012)

Pale color. Musky aromas of lime and powdered stone, complicated by spring flowers and a hint of marzipan. Densely packed and slightly sweet but with lively acidity framing and lifting the citrus, floral and mineral flavors. A note of baked bread gives this wine plenty of appeal today, but this still-young ’01 has the framework…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2012 Brut Vintage is radiant and super-expressive from the get-go. Apricot, pastry, baked apple and buttery notes wrap around the palate effortlessly. Soft and caressing, with tons of immediacy, the 2012 is quite showy today. More importantly, it is delicious and also very easy to like.

Santa Cruz Mountains – California’s Hidden Gem (Nov 2023)

The 2020 Monte Bello opens with a burst of dark red fruit. Leather, tobacco and mocha open nicely in the glass. There’s no getting past smoke taint in this wine. That’s a shame, as the flavors are nicely delineated and the tannins are well balanced for the year in this small-scaled Monte Bello. The 2020…