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Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good healthy deep red. Musky, reduced nose offers dark raspberry and a whiff of menthol. Big, broad and sweet in the mouth, with plush raspberry fruit given shape and lift by lovely vinosity. This rather powerful, even massive, Barbaresco opened beautifully in the glass to show a deep sweetness and lovely perfume. The long, slowly…

Barbaresco 2010: Treiso Shines (Oct 2013)

The 2009 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano brings together the best qualities of the vintage, with a solid core of intense fruit, expressive aromatics and a measure of tannic heft that will keep the wine fresh and vibrant for many years. Dark cherry, plum, spice and leather notes flesh out on the huge, voluptuous finish. In 2009,…

2014 Barbaresco: An October Surprise (Oct 2017)

A dark, brooding wine, the 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano comes across as quite virile today, with huge tannins and equally imposing dark fruit. Smoke, leather, licorice and game add to an impression of raw, almost unrestrained, power. There is not a whole lot of finesse here at least not now. The Montestefano is a wine…

Looking Back to Look Forward: Back Vintage Brunello (Jan 2022)

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille grounds you to the earth with a bouquet that mixes wild berries and exotic spice with flowery undergrowth and smoke. This soothes the palate with soft, fleshy textures, casting a wave of ripe red and black fruit across a core of zesty acidity, and a hint of spicy citrus…

2006 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2011)

Bright dark red with ruby tones. Black fruits, licorice, incense and minerals on the nose; smells like a head shop. Utterly silky and perfumed on entry, then tightly coiled in the middle, with a deep sweetness leavened by a saline quality. This very young Brunello boasts a terrific tannic structure and saturates the entire palate….

The Landmark Vintage: 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Retrospective

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is a model of dark elegance, with a cooling whiff of sweet smoke, stone dust and sage paving the way for crushed blackberries and nuances of blood orange. It is beautifully resolved, with textures of weighted silk supported by tantalizing acidity as a core of luxuriously ripe red and…