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Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Leesy, toasty aromas of baked apple, nutmeg, flowers, spices and citrus oil. Big, rich, thick and mouthfilling; offers an extraordinarily chewy texture, with ripe acids giving the flavors great thrust. Exhilarating chalky soil tones on the completely ripe, tactile aftertaste. Knockout Champagne.

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good bright, deep red. Discreet nose hints at cassis, violet, licorice and mint. Wonderfully rich and deep but tighter today and less showy than the Suchots, even a bit youthfully ungiving in spite of its seamless texture. The dark fruit flavors are perked up by licorice, mint and fresh herbs. Most impressive today on the…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1998 Petrus never fails to deliver. This is a fabulous example that confirms it is a true tour de force. It has a compelling bouquet with mineral-rich black and red fruit with unerring purity. In this bottle, I notice a hint of hickory not observed previously. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins,…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Saturated ruby-red. Multidimensional nose melds black raspberry, mulberry, toffee, minerals, rose petal and roasted oak. Great sweetness, volume and depth; thick but magically light on its feet. Grows broader on the back half with no loss of shape. Firm underlying backbone is currently hidden by seamless fruit. Finishes with big but noble tannins and terrific…

The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)

The 1961 Latour is served blind against the Palmer and it comes off second best on this occasion. But that should not take anything away from a quite stupendous Pauillac. Intense black fruit laced with graphite and crushed stone, it is deeply impressive but perhaps lacks a warm personality compared to the Margaux. The palate…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red, with a hint of amber; I’ve had bottles of this that are still ruby. Ineffable aromas of game, smoky oak, herbs and vanilla, with a distinctly wild quality. Extremely powerful and structured, with bracing acidity giving it great grip and buns of steel. Still very tight and young, but less thick than the…